Geisha: the remarkable story of Japan's comfort women
July 13, 2025
In the heart of traditional Japan, among the narrow streets and wooden houses, lies one of the most fascinating and often misunderstood elements of Japanese culture - the world of geisha. These skilled artists, whose history dates back to the Middle Ages, have spent centuries honing their skills in dance, music, conversation and the tea ceremony, becoming living treasures of Japanese tradition. Kyoto's Gion district, with its distinctive wooden machiya houses and lantern-lit tea houses, remains the heart of this culture, where some 70 geisha (geiko) and 30 female disciples (maiko) carry on centuries-old traditions. For travelers seeking an authentic cultural experience, an encounter with this unique art offers an unforgettable glimpse into a Japan that, despite the passage of time, retains its most treasured traditions.
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The history and significance of geisha in Japanese culture
The word 'geisha' literally means 'person of art' and perfectly captures the essence of this profession, which has evolved over the centuries from simple entertainment to a refined art form. The origins of this tradition date back to the Middle Ages, when the Gion district of Kyoto began to serve travelers and pilgrims visiting the nearby Yasaka Temple. It was during this period that the foundations of a culture that has survived to this day in almost unchanged form began to take shape.
The Gion district, which is the heart of geisha culture, has retained its traditional character despite the passage of centuries. Walking through its narrow streets, you can feel as if you are in ancient Japan - machiya wooden houses, paper lanterns and the distinctive clatter of wooden geta sandals on cobblestone sidewalks create an atmosphere that takes you back in time. There are currently about 70 geiko (as geisha are called in Kyoto dialect) and 30 maiko (schoolgirls) working in the Gion district, operating about 60 traditional teahouses.
A key site for understanding the history of geisha is the Gion Kōbu Kaburenjō, a historic theater built in 1873. Originally a temple auxiliary building, this unique institution was transformed into a training center and performance space for geisha arts. For more than 150 years, this theater has witnessed the evolution of traditional dances and music, becoming a living monument to Japanese culture. It is here that the famous annual Miyako Odori performance takes place, one of the most important events in Kyoto's cultural calendar.
Miyako Odori, also known as the 'Old Capital Dance,' is a unique event initiated in 1872 during the Kyoto Industrial Exhibition. It was originally intended to attract tourists to the city, which had lost its capital status to Tokyo. Over the years, the show has become one of the most important displays of geisha skills, presenting the changing seasons through traditional dances, music and songs. Every April, the Gion Kōbu Kaburenjō theater fills with spectators from all over the world, eager to admire the artistry of female artists in traditional silk kimonos.
The road to becoming a geisha is long and demanding. Young girls, often starting at the age of 15-16, go through a rigorous training system that lasts about five years. During this time, they learn traditional dances, how to play instruments (especially the shamisen - a three-stringed instrument similar to a banjo), tea ceremony, calligraphy, as well as the art of conversation and etiquette. As maiko, they wear distinctive, extremely colorful long-sleeved kimonos, tall wooden okobo sandals and more complex hairstyles than experienced geisha.
It is worth noting that, contrary to common stereotypes in the West, geisha are not and never have been prostitutes. Their role in Japanese society has always centered around art, entertainment and high-level conversation. They have been, and continue to be, guardians of traditional culture, passing on skills from generation to generation that might otherwise disappear in the face of modernization.
One of the most accessible places where tourists can learn about geisha culture is Gion Corner. This small theater in the heart of the Gion district offers regular shows of traditional Japanese arts, including geisha dances, tea ceremony, shamisen music, bunraku puppet theater and kyogen theater (a comic form of nō theater). The performances last about an hour and provide an excellent introduction to Japanese traditional culture for those who are unable to attend a private banquet with geisha.
And for those who want a deeper understanding of the world of geisha, the Gion Kagai Art Museum offers a fascinating journey through the history of this unique profession. Housed in the Yasaka Club building, the museum displays exhibits related to the life and art of geisha, including traditional kimonos, musical instruments and everyday objects. The exhibits are changed regularly, allowing different aspects of geisha culture to be presented depending on the season and current cultural events.
Contemporary experiences with geisha culture
The modern world of geisha, while rooted in centuries of tradition, is constantly evolving to adapt to changing times and expectations. For travelers wishing to experience this fascinating culture, Kyoto offers a range of opportunities - from observing geisha rushing to evening gatherings, to professional shows, to interactive workshops and transformations.
One of the most authentic experiences is walking through the Gion district at dusk, especially along the picturesque Shirakawa Canal. This charming waterway, lined with traditional teahouses and restaurants, is one of Kyoto's most photogenic corners. It looks especially beautiful in spring, when the blooming cherry trees are reflected in the water, and in autumn, when the surrounding trees turn fiery colors. It is here, between 5 and 6 pm, that you may be lucky enough to see geisha and maiko hurrying off to evening meetings. However, it's worth remembering to be respectful - photographing female artists without their permission is considered rude, and stopping them on their way to meetings is absolutely unacceptable.
For those who want a more organized experience, the Kyoto Geisha Show & Experience GION MAIKOYA offers a unique opportunity to learn more about the world of geisha. This cultural center, located in the heart of the Gion district, hosts regular geisha dance shows, tea ceremonies and interactive workshops where you can learn the basics of traditional Japanese arts. Particularly popular are sessions where professional geisha teach guests basic dance steps or shamisen playing techniques. Prices for these experiences range from relatively inexpensive group shows to exclusive private gatherings.
Miyako Odori, the aforementioned annual dance performance, is one of the most important events on Kyoto's cultural calendar. Held every April at the Gion Kōbu Kaburenjō Theater, it showcases the highest level of artistry by geisha and maiko from the Gion Kobu district. The performance, which lasts about an hour, takes the audience on a journey through the four seasons, using traditional dances, music and songs to depict the changing Japanese landscape. Tickets for this prestigious event are available in several price categories, making it accessible to a wide audience. However, it is worth reserving seats in advance, as it is extremely popular with tourists and Japanese residents alike.
For those interested in the history and art of geisha, the Gion Kagai Art Museum is a must-see. This relatively new museum, opened in the Yasaka Club building, displays a fascinating collection of artifacts related to the life and art of geisha. The exhibits are changed regularly to showcase different aspects of this rich culture. The museum also offers interactive exhibits to help visitors better understand the daily lives and challenges faced by modern geisha. Ticket prices are affordable, and the museum offers audio guides in several languages, making it accessible to international tourists.
If you dream of feeling like a maiko for at least a little while, numerous studios in Kyoto, such as Gion AYA Maiko & Geisha Makeover, offer professional makeover services. During such a session, which usually lasts one to three hours, experienced stylists transform guests into maiko or geisha - applying traditional white makeup, styling their hair (or putting on a wig), helping them put on a multi-layered kimono and teaching them the basics of how to move in this traditional costume. Photo sessions in the studio or against the backdrop of Kyoto's historic corners make excellent souvenirs of the trip. Prices for these services vary depending on the package selected, but even the basic options offer an authentic experience.
It is also worth mentioning that geisha culture is not limited to Kyoto. Tokyo, though more modern and urbanized, also has its geisha districts, the most famous of which is Kagurazaka. Geisya Komichi Alley (Geisha Alley) is a narrow, cobblestone street in the heart of this district that once housed many traditional teahouses. Today, although most of them have been converted into modern restaurants and cafes, the architecture and atmosphere of the place are still a reminder of its rich history. Walking along this picturesque avenue, especially in the evening when the traditional lanterns are lit, you can feel the spirit of old Tokyo.
Also nearby is Geisha Shindo, a historic road that geisha women traditionally walked along on their way to evening meetings. Today, the street is a popular stroll for tourists and Tokyo residents, offering a mix of traditional Japanese stores, restaurants and modern boutiques. Although the chances of seeing a real geisha here are much less than in Kyoto, the very atmosphere of the place is an interesting contrast to Tokyo's ultra-modern neighborhoods.
It is worth noting that modern geisha face many challenges. Their numbers are steadily declining - from thousands in the pre-war period to just a few hundred today. High training costs, rigorous lifestyles and changing social expectations mean that fewer and fewer young women are choosing this path. At the same time, growing tourist interest in this unique profession is creating new opportunities - demonstrations, workshops and interactive experiences allow geisha to share their art with a wider audience, while retaining traditional values and skills.
Secrets and legends of the geisha world
Surrounded by an aura of mystery and exclusivity, the world of geisha has for centuries grown into legends and stories that fascinate Japanese and foreign tourists alike. These stories, handed down from generation to generation, are an integral part of Japan's cultural heritage and add depth to the experience of interacting with the geisha tradition.
One of the most intriguing legends associated with the Gion district is the tale of the 'White Geisha' - a mysterious figure who, according to local legends, appears around the Shirakawa Canal during the full moon. According to legend, she was an extremely talented geisha who fell in love with a forbidden man and committed suicide out of despair. Her ghost, dressed in a snow-white kimono, is said to still walk along the canal, searching for her lost love. Although this is only a local legend, it adds a romantic, somewhat melancholy dimension to evening strolls along this picturesque corner of Kyoto.
On the other hand, the Gion Kōbu Kaburenjō Theater, the heart of the geisha's artistic activities, has its own mysterious history. According to accounts, there is a hidden tunnel in the theater's basement, which during times of political unrest served as an escape route for important figures attending banquets with geisha. Although the existence of such a tunnel has never been officially confirmed, the story is a reminder of the complicated relationship between the geisha world and the spheres of power in ancient Japan.
A fascinating aspect of geisha culture that is rarely mentioned in tourist guides is the system of 'elder and younger sisters' (onee-san and imouto-san). Each maiko, as she begins her education, is assigned to an experienced geisha who becomes her mentor and 'big sister.' This relationship, which often lasts a lifetime, goes far beyond formal training - the older sister not only teaches the younger one artistic techniques, but also introduces her to the complex world of social relations, etiquette and unwritten rules governing the geisha community. Over time, an elaborate network of family ties is formed, with 'grandmothers', 'mothers', 'aunts' and 'cousins' working together to form a strong community of mutually supportive women.
Also worth mentioning is the mysterious geisha language, a specific dialect used in geisha neighborhoods, especially in Kyoto. This unique way of speaking, full of archaic phrases, specialized vocabulary and subtle nuances, provides an additional barrier between the geisha world and the outside world. Learning this dialect is an integral part of maiko education and symbolizes her gradual entry into the closed circle of tradition.
One of the most fascinating yet least known aspects of geisha life is the patronage system. Traditionally, geisha made their living through regular clients - wealthy men who regularly used their artistic services and supported them financially. The relationship between a geisha and her danna (patron) was complex and multidimensional - it went beyond a simple financial transaction, but was rarely romantic or sexual in nature. Today, this system has largely disappeared, replaced by a more democratic model in which geisha perform for a wider range of clients, often in groups.
When visiting Gion Corner, it is worth noting the less obvious aspects of the arts presented there. For example, the traditional dance of geisha, seemingly simple and restrained, is actually full of symbolic gestures and hidden meanings. Every movement of the hand, the way the fan is held or even the direction of the gaze has its own meaning, creating a complex non-verbal language that to the untrained eye can remain unreadable. Similarly, the tea ceremony, presented during the shows, is not just an aesthetic ritual, but a deeply philosophical experience, rooted in Zen Buddhism and the concept of wabi-sabi - seeing beauty in imperfection and transience.
For those who want a deeper understanding of the world of geisha, GION MAIKOYA's Kyoto Geisha Show & Experience offers unique workshops where you can not only observe, but also actively participate in the traditional arts. Of particular interest are lessons in playing the shamisen, a three-stringed instrument whose sound is integral to geisha performances. This seemingly simple instrument requires years of practice to master its subtle nuances. Even a short lesson allows one to appreciate the artistry of professional performers and understand why a geisha's education takes so long.
Kyoto's lesser-known geisha districts are also worth mentioning. While Gion attracts the most attention from tourists, districts such as Pontocho, Miyagawacho and Kamishichiken offer a more intimate, authentic experience. Each of these districts has its own unique character, traditions and artistic specialties. For example, the geishas of Pontocho are known for their refined musical skills, while those of Miyagawacho specialize in traditional dances.
For those who are interested in geisha culture but can't visit Kyoto, Tokyo offers alternative experiences. In addition to the aforementioned Geisya Komichi Alley and Geisha Shindo, look out for Studio GEISHA CAFE, a unique place where you can not only watch geisha-inspired performances, but also take part in workshops and lessons. While the experience is different from traditional shows in Kyoto, it offers an interesting, modern take on this ancient art.
Finally, it's worth noting that despite all the challenges facing the modern geisha world - from the dwindling number of practicing artists, to the high cost of training, to the pressures of commercialization - the tradition is still alive and evolving, adapting to changing times. Thanks to growing interest from tourists and the efforts of geisha themselves to preserve and promote their art, this unique part of Japan's cultural heritage is likely to survive and delight future generations.
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