The first stop on any visit to Civita di Bagnoregio is Porta di Santa Maria – the only remaining of the five former city gates, which provides a spectacular entrance to the town. This monumental structure is decorated with sculptures of lions holding human heads, symbolizing the Etruscan tradition and medieval power of the city. The gate crowns a 300-meter footbridge that rises above the Valle dei Calanchi – a surreal landscape of badlands, a network of eroding, rocky gorges. Crossing the bridge itself is an unforgettable experience: an abyss stretches beneath your feet, and a stone town rises before your eyes, as if suspended between heaven and earth. It is worth knowing that since 2014, an entrance fee has been charged, introduced by the mayor to manage the influx of tourists, which can reach up to 10,000 people a day during the high season.

Just after crossing the Porta di Santa Maria, at via porta santa maria 1, you will find the Guide Turistiche Civita di Bagnoregio InfoPoint, where you can obtain basic information about the town and its history. However, the real gem for those interested in the geological history of this extraordinary place is the Museo Geologico e delle Frane, located in Piazza S. Donato. This small but fascinating museum documents the erosion process that has been destroying the tuff hill on which Civita stands for centuries. The exhibition presents the dramatic landslides that cut the town off from the world and caused it to become an island in a sea of eroding rocks over time. The museum presents historical photographs showing the progress of degradation, geological maps, and interactive exhibits explaining why Civita is called 'il paese che muore' – the dying town.

The geological history of Civita dates back to the Etruscan era, when settlers chose this location for its natural defenses. However, the volcanic tuff on which the town was built proved to be a double-edged material – on the one hand, easy to work with, but on the other, susceptible to water and wind erosion. Over the centuries, rain, wind, and earthquakes systematically undermined the foundations, causing entire neighborhoods to collapse. In the 12th century, when the church of San Donato was built, Civita was still connected to neighboring Bagnoregio by a natural rock ridge. A major earthquake in 1695 destroyed this natural road, and subsequent cataclysms in the 18th and 19th centuries led to the gradual depopulation of the city. Today, the Museo Geologico e delle Frane serves not only as a tourist attraction but also as a research center monitoring the condition of the hill and developing strategies for its preservation for future generations.

By comparison, while the Museo Geologico e delle Frane focuses on scientific and geological aspects, CETHA Grimanesa Amorós in Piazza S. Pietro offers a completely different perspective—an artistic interpretation of erosion and transience. This exhibition space, although less well-known than the geological museum, is an interesting addition to the tour, combining contemporary art with the historical context of the place. It is worth planning a visit to both locations to get a complete picture of both the scientific and cultural significance of Civita di Bagnoregio.

The main artery of Civita, Via Madonna della Maestà, is a cobbled street that runs through the heart of the town and connects the most important attractions of this extraordinary place. A walk along this medieval road is a journey through the centuries – stone tuff houses, covered with flowers and ivy, create a picturesque scenery that looks almost identical to what it did hundreds of years ago. The first stop on this route should be Pozzo delle monete – a historic well where coins are traditionally thrown in to make a wish. This well is not only a tourist attraction but also an important part of the town's former water system, which allowed its inhabitants to survive in isolation at the top of the hill. The depth of the well and the precision of its construction testify to the advanced engineering skills of the Etruscans, who had to ensure a constant source of water for their stronghold.

A little further on, also on Via Madonna della Maestà, is the Giardino del Poeta, a private garden that is a true oasis of peace and beauty. This place stands out from Civita's other attractions with its intimate character and lush vegetation, which contrasts with the harsh landscape of the surrounding badlands. The garden is decorated with sculptures and artistic installations that blend harmoniously with the natural scenery. It is worth knowing that access to the Giardino del Poeta requires the purchase of a gift in the adjacent shop – an unusual solution, but one that allows the garden to be kept in excellent condition and maintain its exclusive character. For visitors looking for a quiet corner away from the main tourist trails, this garden is the perfect haven. In summer, when the jasmine is in bloom, the aroma in the air creates an almost magical atmosphere, making a visit to this place an unforgettable sensory experience.

Near the garden is the Antica Civitas, another museum documenting the history of the city, but from an archaeological and cultural perspective. Unlike the Museo Geologico e delle Frane, which focuses on natural processes, the Antica Civitas displays Etruscan, Roman, and medieval artifacts found in the area. The exhibition includes ceramics, tools, fragments of frescoes, and everyday objects that provide insight into what life was like in Civita over the centuries. Of particular interest is the collection of Etruscan funerary objects, which testify to the developed spiritual culture of the first inhabitants of this place. Although small, the museum offers a deep insight into the multi-layered history of the region and is an excellent addition to any tour for those interested in archaeology and ancient history.

Continuing along Via Madonna della Maestà, you will reach an Etruscan tunnel, a fascinating example of ancient engineering. This tuff-carved corridor leads to Punto panoramico, a viewpoint offering breathtaking panoramas of the Tiber Valley and Valle dei Calanchi. From here, you can see the full scale of the erosion that has ravaged the hill – vertical cliffs, deep gorges, and exposed rock layers create a surreal landscape that looks like the set of a science fiction movie. The viewpoint is particularly spectacular at dawn, when fog rises above the valley, or at sunset, when golden light highlights the dramatic terrain. For photographers and nature lovers, it is an absolute must-see. It is worth reserving more time for this view and simply enjoying the peace and majesty of the surrounding nature, which, despite its destructive force, creates extraordinary beauty.

Civita di Bagnoregio is a place that requires a bit of planning, but the reward of an authentic, non-touristy experience is well worth it. The town is located in the Lazio region, about 120 kilometers north of Rome, in the province of Viterbo. It takes about two hours to get there by car, and parking is available in neighboring Bagnoregio, where the walk across the famous footbridge begins. It is worth planning a full-day visit or even considering staying overnight in one of the few guesthouses in Civita or nearby Bagnoregio to experience the magic of this place at different times of the day. A full tour of the town takes about an hour at a leisurely pace, but the real value of a visit lies in slowing down and savoring the atmosphere of the medieval streets, viewing terraces, and local trattorias.

What sets Civita apart from other Italian destinations is its non-touristy character. Although it was visited by a million people a year before the pandemic, the town has retained its authenticity and tranquility, which has disappeared from more popular places such as Venice and Florence. The deserted streets, where you can walk in silence, interrupted only by birdsong and the sound of the wind, create an atmosphere of contemplation and detachment from the modern world. With only 12 permanent residents, Civita feels more like an open-air museum than a living town, but it is this ephemerality—the awareness that the rock may one day crumble completely—that adds a deeper dimension to the visit. Every step along the cobbled streets is a walk through history that literally slips away under your feet.

The fact that Harry Styles has purchased a townhouse here underscores Civita's growing popularity among those seeking hidden gems and authentic experiences. The British musician, known for his love of Italian culture and architecture, chose this place as his personal haven, which testifies to the unique character of the town. His investment has attracted the attention of the media and fans, but Civita remains a place where you can find peace and privacy – something that is becoming increasingly rare in the era of mass tourism. For couples looking for a romantic weekend, photographers hunting for unique shots, or simply travelers wanting to experience Italy off the beaten track, Civita di Bagnoregio offers something unique.

Seasonality plays an important role in the nature of the visit. In summer, when jasmine blooms and ivy entwines the stone walls, the town is awash with flowers and aromas, creating a romantic atmosphere perfect for couples. Spring and fall offer milder weather and fewer tourists, allowing for a more intimate experience. Winter, although cooler, has its own charm—mists at dawn envelop the hill, creating a mystical setting that looks like something out of a fairy tale. Regardless of the season, it is worth planning your visit in advance, especially when it comes to accommodation, as places in guesthouses are limited. Local trattorias serve traditional dishes from the Lazio region, and sitting on the terrace overlooking the Valle dei Calanchi, enjoying local wine and simple but delicious food, is an experience that will stay with you for a long time.

It is also worth remembering that Civita di Bagnoregio is an ephemeral place – erosion is progressing and the future of the town remains uncertain. It is this awareness of transience that adds a special meaning to a visit. This is not a place to visit 'sometime' – it is a place to see now, while it still exists. For lovers of city breaks and authentic urban experiences, Civita is the perfect escape from Rome or Florence – just a few hours' drive is enough to transport you to a completely different world, where time passes more slowly and history is tangible. It is a place that changes your perspective and reminds you of the fragility of human civilization in the face of the forces of nature, but also of the beauty that can arise from this fragility.