San Sebastian: the culinary capital of the world according to Anthony Bourdain. A guide to the best pubs for a Basque city break

San Sebastian: the culinary capital of the world according to Anthony Bourdain. A guide to the best pubs for a Basque city break

June 20, 2025

When the legendary Anthony Bourdain called San Sebastian the 'culinary capital of the world,' he wasn't exaggerating one bit. This small city located in the Basque Country, in the north of Spain, has been attracting foodies from all over the globe for years, offering an extraordinary variety of culinary experiences - from traditional pintxos (Basque tapas) bars to Michelin-starred restaurants. San Sebastian, known locally as Donostia, is a place where the culinary arts have reached a level of mastery and where every bite of food becomes an unforgettable experience. The local cuisine, deeply rooted in Basque tradition, but at the same time innovative and adventurous, means that a short city break in this city can become the culinary trip of a lifetime.

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Michelin stars and culinary legends

San Sebastian boasts one of the world's highest rates of Michelin stars per capita. There are as many as three Michelin-starred restaurants in this small city, making it a true paradise for lovers of fine dining.

One of these legendary restaurants is Arzak, run by Juan Mari Arzak and his daughter Elena. This restaurant, in continuous operation since 1897, was originally a modest tavern run by Juan Mari's grandparents. Today it is a place of worship for lovers of avant-garde Basque cuisine. Recognized as the father of modern Basque cuisine, Juan Mari Arzak revolutionized local culinary traditions with innovative techniques and unexpected flavor combinations, while maintaining a deep respect for local products and traditions. His daughter Elena, who joined the team in 1995, brought a fresh perspective and new energy, continuing the family tradition of culinary excellence.

The tasting menu at Arzak is a true journey through the flavors of the Basque Country, where traditional dishes get a modern interpretation. The restaurant is famous for such specialties as 'egg with coconut', 'pigeon with apple' or 'chocolate cube with cashew'. Each dish is a small work of art, delighting not only in taste, but also in appearance. Prices at Arzak fall into the expensive category, but the culinary experience it offers is worth every penny spent.

Another culinary treasure of San Sebastian is Kokotxa Jatetxea, a restaurant run by chef Daniel López. Honored with one Michelin star, Cocotxa offers two different tasting menus that change depending on the season and product availability. The restaurant is located in the heart of the Old Town (Parte Vieja) and impresses not only with its unique dishes, but also with its beautiful view of Donostia's historic center. The name 'kokotxa' refers to the tender part of the chin of cod or hake, a local delicacy that perfectly symbolizes the chef's philosophy - extracting maximum flavor from simple, local ingredients. Prices at Kokotxa are high, but lower than at three Michelin-starred restaurants, making it a slightly more accessible option for those looking to experience exquisite Basque cuisine.

If you're looking for a unique dining experience, but at a slightly more affordable price, Bodegon Alejandro would be an excellent choice. This restaurant, run by Martín Berasategui (who himself owns a three Michelin-starred restaurant in nearby Lasarte), offers a tasting menu for under 60 euros, a real bargain by San Sebastian standards. Berasategui learned to cook right at Bodegon Alejandro, which belonged to his family, and today, although he runs his own restaurants, he still ensures the quality of the food served here. The menu is based on traditional Basque recipes, but served in a modern, elegant way. The restaurant is located in a cozy basement in the Old Town and has a long history - it has been in business since 1970, when Berasategui's grandparents converted their grocery store into a restaurant.

A must-stop for wine lovers will be Rekondo, a restaurant with one of the best wine cellars in Europe. Founded in 1964 by Txomin Rekondo, a wine enthusiast, the restaurant has an impressive collection of more than 125,000 bottles, including rare vintages and unique labels. The restaurant itself specializes in traditional Basque cuisine, serving classic dishes like merluza in green pepper sauce and lamb ribs. Rekondo is located on the hill of Monte Igueldo, offering a beautiful view of the Bay of La Concha. Prices are high, but the opportunity to taste exceptional wines paired with great food makes a visit here a true feast for the palate.

The culture of pintxos -. Basque tapas

Although Michelin-starred restaurants are the pride of San Sebastian, it is the pintxos culture that is the true essence of the city's culinary life. Pintxos (pronounced 'pinchos') are the Basque version of tapas - small, often toothpick-stuffed snacks that are traditionally eaten while standing at the bar, sipping on local Txakoli wine, cider or beer. The name 'pintxos' comes from the Spanish word 'pinchar', meaning 'to pierce' - originally, all these snacks were scooped onto toothpicks to make it easier to count how much a customer had eaten.

The Old Town (Parte Vieja) is the true center of pintxos culture, with almost every bar offering its own unique versions of these snacks. One of the most famous and highly regarded places is La Cuchara de San Telmo, a small bar tucked away in an alley near Santa Maria Church. Although it doesn't look impressive from the outside, the place is very popular with tourists and locals alike. La Cuchara de San Telmo specializes in modern, creative pintxos that look more like miniature dishes from fine dining restaurants than traditional bar snacks. Their showpiece dish is cochinillo (piglet), which melts in the mouth and leaves an unforgettable taste experience. Other recommended specialties include foie gras with apple and beef cheeks in red wine. Prices are average, but the quality of the dishes makes every zloty well spent. It is worth remembering that La Cuchara de San Telmo does not take reservations and there is often a long line, especially on weekend evenings.

Another iconic spot on the San Sebastian pintxos map is Bar Txepetxa, a true institution specializing in anchovies (anchovies are marinated anchovy fillets). This unassuming bar has been in business since 1947 and has spent decades perfecting the art of preparing these small silver fish. Txepetxa offers eight different versions of anchovy pintxos, each with a different topping - from the classic onion, olive oil and paprika, to more elaborate combinations with apple or foie gras. The interior of the bar is simple and traditional, with a wooden counter and walls covered with photos and memorabilia. Prices are affordable, which, combined with the authentic atmosphere and excellent food, makes this place a must-stop on a culinary tour of the city.

Gandarias is another bar with pintxos that deserves special attention. Located on 31 de Agosto Street, it offers both traditional pintxos displayed on the bar and hot snacks prepared to order. Gandarias is especially famous for its meat specialties, especially the steak (chuleton) here is exceptionally good. This bar also has a well-stocked wine cellar, which allows for the perfect combination of local spirits and delicious food. The interior is spacious, with a large bar and several tables, a rarity among traditional bars with pintxos. Prices are average, and the service is friendly and helpful, which is a big plus for tourists unfamiliar with local customs.

Borda Berri is a place that, despite its small size, has won great praise from locals and tourists alike. Located on Fermin Calbeton Street, this small bar specializes in warm pintxos prepared to order. The menu is small, but each dish is cooked to perfection. Particularly recommended are the pork cheeks in red wine sauce and the risotto with mushrooms and idiazabal cheese. Borda Berri doesn't have the typical pintxos bar counter with snacks on display - all dishes are prepared fresh and taste great. Prices are average and portions are slightly larger than at other bars, making this place a good choice for those with larger appetites.

Ganbara is another gem on the culinary map of San Sebastian. This family-run bar, which has been in business for generations, is especially famous for its seasonal mushrooms, with boletes (porcini) being especially prized. During the mushroom season (mainly in autumn), Ganbara offers a variety of dishes with these forest treasures, from simple grilled mushrooms drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with sea salt, to more complex compositions. The bar has a distinctive decor with wooden elements and traditional Basque accents. The counter festooned with colorful pintxos is a true feast for the eyes. In addition to mushrooms, Ganbara is also famous for its seafood, especially shrimp and crab. Prices are higher than in some other eateries, but the quality of the products fully justifies it.

Tradition and modernity - culinary harmony

San Sebastian is a city where traditional Basque cuisine meets modern culinary trends, creating a harmonious whole that delights even the most demanding gourmets. This balance between respect for tradition and openness to innovation is what makes this city's culinary scene so unique.

Casa Urola is a prime example of a restaurant that successfully combines traditional Basque flavors with modern culinary techniques. Founded in 1956, it has won acclaim for its classic dishes for decades. But the real revolution came when Pablo Loureiro Rodil became chef in 2002, breathing new life into the menu while maintaining respect for tradition. Casa Urola is famous for its excellent grilled dishes, especially seafood and fish. The establishment's specialties include merluza (hake) prepared in a variety of ways, and kokotxa - the tender part of cod's chin, considered a true delicacy in Basque cuisine. The restaurant is located in a beautiful historic building in the heart of the Old Town, and its interior combines traditional elements with modern touches. There is a bar with pintxos on the first floor and an elegant restaurant upstairs. Prices are average to high, but the quality of the dishes and service fully justifies it.

Casa Urola's history is fascinating - it started out as a modest bar run by the Urola family, which over time evolved into one of the city's most respected restaurants. Over the years, the establishment has changed owners, but has always maintained its character and commitment to local culinary traditions. Pablo Loureiro Rodil, the current chef, worked at several Michelin-starred restaurants before taking the helm at Casa Urola, allowing him to bring elements of haute cuisine to traditional Basque cuisine.

Another place that perfectly illustrates San Sebastian's culinary harmony is Borda Berri. This small bar, whose name means 'new hut' in Basque, was founded by Iñigo Zeberio and Marc Clua, two chefs who previously worked at the famous La Cuchara de San Telmo. Borda Berri is distinguished by the fact that all pintxos are prepared to order, a departure from the traditional model where snacks are displayed on the bar. The menu changes regularly, depending on the season and the availability of produce, but is always based on local, fresh ingredients.

One of the secrets to Borda Berri's success is their slow-cooking technique, which allows them to extract the maximum flavor from each ingredient. Their flagship dish is carrilleras - pork cheeks braised in red wine for hours until they are so tender that they fall apart under the pressure of a fork. Another hit is the risotto with mushrooms and idiazabal cheese, creamy and intense in flavor. The bar has a minimalist décor, with a small number of seats, creating an intimate, cozy atmosphere. Prices are moderate, and portions are surprisingly large by pintxos standards.

San Sebastian's fascinating culinary history is also worth mentioning. The city, although today associated with fine cuisine, has its roots in a simple, fishing tradition. For centuries, fishing was the main source of livelihood for residents, and this is reflected in the local cuisine, where seafood and fish play a key role. A turning point in the city's culinary history came in the 1970s and 1980s, when a group of young, ambitious chefs, inspired by French nouvelle cuisine, began experimenting with traditional Basque recipes. This 'new Basque cuisine' (Nueva Cocina Vasca) revolutionized the local culinary scene and laid the foundation for San Sebastian's fame today as the culinary capital of the world.

When planning a culinary city break in San Sebastian, there are a few practical tips to keep in mind. The best time to visit is during the spring (April-June) and fall (September-October) months, when the weather is pleasant and the city is not crowded with tourists. During the summer, especially in August, San Sebastian is under siege, which can make it difficult to find a seat in popular bars and restaurants. If you plan to visit a Michelin-starred restaurant, it's a good idea to make reservations several months in advance. For bars with pintxos, reservations are usually not accepted, and the best strategy is to come early (around 7:30-8pm) or late (after 10pm) to avoid the biggest crowds.

San Sebastian is not only a culinary capital, but also a city rich in history and culture, with beautiful beaches and a picturesque old town. Combining tastings of local delicacies with sightseeing can create the perfect plan for an unforgettable city break. Whether you choose to dine exquisitely in a Michelin-starred restaurant or wander along the trail of the best pintxos bars, San Sebastian is sure to delight you with its culinary diversity and unparalleled quality.

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