Trip through the Sudetenland: from Poland to the Czech Republic on the trail of castles and palaces

Trip through the Sudetenland: from Poland to the Czech Republic on the trail of castles and palaces

June 11, 2025

A journey through the picturesque Sudetenland is an extraordinary opportunity to discover the fascinating history of the region, written in the stone walls of medieval castles and palaces. The Czech side of the Sudetenland hides true architectural pearls that have witnessed the turbulent history of Central Europe for centuries. Karlštejn, Křivoklát, Kokořín and Český Šternberk are not only impressive buildings, but also places full of legends, mysteries and stories that will take you back in time to the age of knights, kings and nobility. Each of these castles has its own unique history and character, offering visitors an unforgettable experience and the opportunity to immerse themselves in a medieval atmosphere.

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Karlštejn and Křivoklát - royal fortresses full of secrets

A journey on the trail of Czech castles should begin with monumental Karlštejn, one of the most recognizable symbols of Czech history. This Gothic fortress, built on a limestone hill in the mid-14th century on the initiative of Emperor Charles IV, was originally intended to serve as a treasury for the coronation insignia and relics of the Holy Roman Empire. Its strategic location, just 30 kilometers from Prague, allowed quick access to the capital while ensuring the safety of the kingdom's most precious treasures.

Karlštejn impresses with its majestic silhouette, which dominates the surrounding area. The castle was built on three levels, symbolizing the divine hierarchy - the lowest was the servants' and guards' quarters, higher the imperial chambers, and at the very top was the Great Tower with the Chapel of the Holy Cross, where the most precious relics were kept. This chapel is a true gem of medieval art - its walls are decorated with 129 paintings painted by the master Theodoric, depicting saints and prophets. It is the largest surviving medieval series of panel paintings in the world.

Karlštejn is linked to the fascinating legend of Catherine, the beautiful daughter of a royal alchemist, who fell in love with the young knight Ottokar. Their love was forbidden, as Catherine was promised to another. According to the legend, the lovers met secretly in the basement of the castle, where they discovered a secret passage leading to the treasure. When their secret came to light, Ottokar was imprisoned in the dungeons and Catherine was locked in a tower. It is said that on moonless nights her cries can be heard echoing among the castle walls.

Just 40 kilometers from Karlštejn is another gem of Czech defensive architecture - Křivoklát Castle. This majestic structure, built in the 13th century, was one of the most important royal residences of the Přemyslid and Luxembourg dynasties. Unlike Karlštejn, which served as a treasury, Křivoklát served as a hunting residence and a prison for the noble. Surrounded by dense forests, the castle was an ideal place for royal hunting trips, which were not only a pastime but also an important part of court life and diplomacy.

Křivoklát impresses with its architecture, combining Gothic and Renaissance elements. Particularly impressive is the 42-meter-high Great Tower, which offers a breathtaking view of the Berounka River valley and surrounding forests. Inside the castle is a rich collection of furniture, paintings and weapons, as well as one of the oldest libraries in the Czech Republic, with more than 52,000 volumes.

Many notable captives were imprisoned within the walls of Křivoklát, including alchemist Edward Kelley, who worked at the court of Emperor Rudolf II. According to legend, Kelley discovered the secret of transmuting metals into gold while in prison, but took the secret to his grave. It is said that his ghost still haunts the dungeons of the castle, and on some nights you can see strange lights in the windows of the tower where he was imprisoned.

Kokořín Castle - a a hidden gem among the rocks

Leaving the royal fortress, it is worth heading north, where hidden among picturesque sandstone rock formations is Kokořín Castle. Erected in the early 14th century by Hynek Berek of Dubé, this mysterious structure has remained forgotten and abandoned for centuries, which only adds to its romantic charm. Located in the heart of the Kokořínsko nature reserve, the castle is an excellent example of Czech Gothic architecture, harmoniously integrated into the surrounding landscape.

Kokořín's history is as fascinating as its architecture. After the Hussite Wars in the 15th century, the castle was declared 'cursed' and forbidden to be rebuilt. For more than 400 years it stood abandoned, falling into disrepair, which made it an inspiration for many Czech Romantics and artists. It wasn't until the early 20th century that it was purchased and painstakingly restored by the Špaček family, who restored it to its former glory while preserving its medieval character.

Kokořín impresses with its location - built on a high sandstone rock, surrounded by a dense forest, it seems to grow straight out of the ground. Its cylindrical tower towers over the surrounding area, offering spectacular views of the Kokořín valley and the distinctive sandstone rock formations that have been shaped by wind and water over the centuries. These remarkable landscapes have attracted not only tourists, but also filmmakers - the castle and its surroundings have served as the setting for many Czech historical and fairy tale films.

The castle is linked to the legend of the White Lady of Kokořín, the spirit of a young girl who fell in love with a knight defending the castle from invaders. When her beloved was killed in battle, she threw herself from the tower in despair. According to local legends, her ghost appears on a full moon, walking the castle walls and looking out for the return of her beloved. Some say that an encounter with the White Lady brings good luck in love, while others warn that the sight of her heralds misfortune.

The surroundings of Kokořín Castle are a true paradise for lovers of nature and active recreation. The Kokořínsko Nature Reserve is famous for its unique rock formations, mysterious gorges and caves, which can be explored on hikes. Particularly noteworthy are the 'skalní města' (stone cities) - labyrinths formed by the erosion of sandstone, forming fantastic shapes resembling castles, towers or animals. Among them is the famous 'Pokličky' (Lids) - rock formations resembling mushrooms, where thin stems support massive 'hats'.

Near the castle are also picturesque villages with traditional folk architecture of the region, characterized by wooden houses with richly decorated facades. The village of Kokořín, which gave its name to the castle, is worth a visit, as is nearby Mšeno with its preserved medieval urban layout. The region is also famous for its production of local wines and beer, which can be tasted at the numerous taverns and wineries scattered around the area.

Český Šternberk - the eight-century history of the Sternberg family

The last stop on our tour is the impressive Český Šternberk Castle, rising proudly on a high rocky promontory above the Sázava River. This Gothic gem, built in 1241 by Zdeslav of Sternberg, is one of the best-preserved medieval castles in Bohemia and, remarkably, has remained in the hands of the same family for more than 800 years, with a brief interruption during the communist period. This makes it a unique testament to the continuity of Czech history and aristocratic traditions.

Český Šternberk Castle impresses with its monumental architecture, combining Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque elements. Its distinctive feature is the star-shaped eight-pointed star in the coat of arms of the Sternberg family (the family name literally means 'starry mountain'), which appears in many places in the castle. The building has survived numerous sieges, including Hussite invasions in the 15th century and the Thirty Years' War in the 17th century, each time being rebuilt and expanded by successive generations of owners.

The castle's interiors impress with their wealth of furnishings and decorations. Particularly impressive is the Knights' Hall with a collection of medieval weapons and armor, as well as a unique collection of copperplates depicting events of the Thirty Years' War. The castle's library holds valuable old prints and manuscripts, and the portrait gallery traces the history of the Sternberg family through the centuries. Each room tells a fragment of the fascinating history of the castle and its inhabitants.

Český Šternberk is linked to the legend of the White Lady, the spirit of the good countess who looked after the castle and its inhabitants. According to the legend, during the Hussite Wars, when the castle was under siege and food supplies were running low, the White Lady led the defenders through a secret tunnel to safety, saving them from starvation and death. Since then, she has appeared at difficult times for the castle and the family, warning of danger or pointing out solutions to problems.

Český Šternberk stands out from other Czech castles not only for its history, but also for its authenticity. Unlike many other historical sites that have been converted into museums, this castle is still the home of the Sternberg family. The current owner, Zdeněk Sternberg, lives in part of the castle and personally cares about preserving the family legacy. This living continuity of history makes visiting the castle a unique experience - you can feel the atmosphere of a real aristocratic residence, not just a museum exhibit.

The castle's surroundings are as captivating as the building itself. The picturesque valley of the Sázava River, the surrounding forested hills and medieval villages create the perfect setting for this historical gem. The region offers excellent hiking and biking, and the Sázava River itself is a popular destination for kayakers and anglers. There are also other interesting attractions nearby, such as the ruins of Hus Castle and the medieval town of Sázava with its Romanesque monastery.

Comparing all four castles on our route, each offers unique experiences and attractions. Karlštejn impresses with its royal splendor and rich history associated with Emperor Charles IV, Křivoklát impresses with its forest location and atmosphere of medieval royal hunting, Kokořín charms with its romantic location among sandstone cliffs, and Český Šternberk stands out for its authenticity and the uninterrupted history of the owner's family. In terms of accessibility, Karlštejn is the most crowded due to its proximity to Prague, while the more distant Kokořín offers a more intimate experience. Price-wise, all castles fall into the average category, although Karlštejn, as the most popular attraction, may be slightly more expensive than the others.

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