Valencia: paella valenciana and its history in Spain's third largest city
December 20, 2025
Valencia, Spain's third largest city, is not only home to architectural wonders and sandy beaches, but above all a culinary capital, where the famous paella was born. This rice dish, initially a modest meal for agricultural workers in the 19th century, is now the pride of the region and one of the most recognizable dishes of Spanish cuisine. Strolling through the streets of Valencia, from the historic center of Ciutat Vella to the coastal districts of Poblados Marítimos, we will discover the city's fascinating culinary history, which has developed over centuries. From traditional arrocerías (restaurants specializing in rice dishes) to modern tapas bars, Valencia offers an extraordinary journey through flavors and aromas that will satisfy both seekers of authentic culinary experiences and budget-conscious tourists.
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Historic paella restaurants by the beach - a tradition dating back to the early 20th century
Valencian paella has its roots in the 19th century, when it was a simple dish prepared by farm workers in the fields of Albufera, a vast wetland area south of the city. They used what they had at hand: rice, vegetables, sometimes rabbit or snails. Today, the best paella valenciana can be found in restaurants that continue the multi-generational traditions of preparing this dish.
One such place is Casa Carmela, a true institution among Valencian restaurants. Founded in the first half of the 20th century, it remains in the hands of the same family, who take great care to preserve the authenticity of the recipes. Located in the Poblados Marítimos district, near Malvarrosa Beach, the restaurant is famous for preparing paella over a traditional orange wood fire, which gives the dish its characteristic aroma. A unique part of the experience here is the opportunity to watch the entire process of preparing the dish, from lighting the fire to the moment the rice reaches the perfect consistency. Interestingly, at Casa Carmela, paella is served directly from the pan in which it was prepared, in keeping with Valencian tradition. Guests eat straight from the pan using wooden spoons, creating an unforgettable communal dining experience.
Nearby, also on the Passeig de Neptú seaside boulevard, is La Pepica, another legendary restaurant whose history dates back to the early 20th century. This place has a special significance in the culinary history of Valencia, as it contributed to the popularization of paella as a dish served by the sea. La Pepica boasts an impressive list of famous guests, including Ernest Hemingway. The writer was said to be so enchanted by the local cuisine that he mentioned the restaurant in his works. Today, La Pepica continues to attract both tourists and locals, offering classic paella valenciana and arroz a banda - rice cooked in seafood broth, served with aioli.
Both restaurants represent the coastal paella cluster, which is an important part of Valencia's culinary map. They are joined by El Trompo Restaurante, a slightly smaller but equally authentic restaurant located on the Paseo Maritimo de la Malvarrosa. El Trompo stands out for its direct access to the beach, making it the perfect place to combine sunbathing with tasting traditional dishes. The restaurant specializes in seafood paella, using fresh ingredients delivered daily by local fishermen.
It is worth noting that seaside paella restaurants are highly seasonal, with the busiest period being from Easter to September. During the peak summer season, it is advisable to book in advance, especially on weekends. For tourists on a budget, La Taberna Casera, also located in the Poblados Marítimos district but offering a more affordable menu, may be a good alternative. This smaller restaurant serves not only paella but also other traditional Valencian dishes, including fresh seafood fried in a light batter (freiduría).
Historic paella restaurants not only cherish traditional recipes, but are also living museums of the region's culinary history. At Casa Carmela, you can see old photographs documenting the evolution of the restaurant and the surrounding beaches over the decades. Similarly, La Pepica, where photos of famous guests and historical menus hang on the walls, bears witness to the development of the city's gastronomic culture. These places are not just restaurants—they are cultural institutions that have played a key role in shaping Valencia's culinary identity.
Arrocerías in the city center – a modern approach to tradition
While the seaside paella restaurants represent the most traditional approach to Valencian cuisine, a fascinating scene of arrocerías—restaurants specializing in a variety of rice dishes—has developed in the city center. The expansion of these places took place mainly in the 1980s and 1990s, along with the gastronomic boom in Valencia, when local culinary traditions began to be seen as an important part of cultural heritage.
One of the most highly regarded arrocerías in the city center is La Riuà, located on C. del Mar Street in the historic Ciutat Vella district. Although this restaurant does not boast as long a history as the coastal classics, it has won recognition among both locals and tourists for its excellent quality rice and respect for traditional techniques. La Riuà offers an impressive variety of rice dishes, from the classic paella valenciana with rabbit and garrofón beans, to seafood paella, to lesser-known specialties such as arroz al horno (rice baked in a clay pot). Interestingly, this restaurant is one of the few places in the city center where paella is prepared over a traditional fire rather than on a gas stove, which significantly affects the taste and aroma of the dish.
A little further from the historic center, in the Camins al Grau district, is Arrosseria Flor de València, a modern restaurant that combines traditional recipes with an innovative approach. The restaurant stands out for its spacious interior and terrace, making it an ideal place for family gatherings or business lunches. Flor de València is famous for its wide range of rice dishes, including vegetarian and gluten-free options, reflecting contemporary culinary trends. Their arroz negro, black rice colored with squid ink, is particularly recommended, as it is not only a feast for the palate but also for the eyes.
For those who want to learn about the history of a family culinary business, Casa Roberto in the L'Eixample district is a must-visit. Run by the same family for several generations, this restaurant combines the atmosphere of a traditional establishment with elegant décor. Casa Roberto is famous for its paella valenciana, prepared according to a closely guarded family recipe. Interestingly, the owners also organize cooking demonstrations, during which they reveal some of the secrets of preparing the perfect paella.
In recent years, places offering a more affordable paella experience have also appeared in the center of Valencia. One of them is es.paella, a modern restaurant located on C/ de Sant Vicent Màrtir in the Ciutat Vella district. This restaurant stands out for its minimalist decor and faster service concept, making it popular with younger customers and tourists with limited time. Es.paella offers smaller portions of different types of rice, allowing you to sample several varieties in one visit — a great option for those who want to explore the diversity of Valencian rice cuisine.
For travelers on a really tight budget or who prefer to eat outdoors, Arrocería Ricepaella Delivery Take Away is an excellent solution. This innovative concept, located in the city center, specializes in takeaway paella, packed in special containers that preserve the heat and aroma of the dish. It is an ideal option for those who want to enjoy the authentic taste of paella while picnicking in one of Valencia's many parks or on the beach.
It is worth noting that urban arrocerías, unlike seaside restaurants, operate throughout the year with similar intensity. They also offer a menu del día - a lunch set at an attractive price, which usually includes an appetizer, a main course (often rice), dessert, and a drink. This is a great option for budget-conscious travelers who don't want to compromise on quality.
Another interesting phenomenon in the center of Valencia is the growing popularity of paella bars, such as Masusa paella bar in the L'Eixample district. These smaller, more casual establishments offer paella in a more modern, less formal setting. Masusa stands out with its colorful street art-inspired decor and a menu that combines traditional flavors with modern touches. It is particularly popular among younger residents and students, offering affordable prices and a friendly atmosphere.
Discovering the secrets of Valencian paella - from tradition to modernity
Paella valenciana is much more than just a dish—it is a symbol of the region's cultural identity, around which many traditions, rituals, and local legends have grown. Learning about these aspects allows for a deeper understanding and appreciation of Valencia's culinary heritage.
One of the most fascinating legends associated with paella is the story of its name. According to local tales, the name comes from the word 'patella' (frying pan in Latin), which over time evolved into the Valencian 'paella'. Another version says that the name comes from the phrase 'para ella' (for her), as traditionally men prepared this dish for their loved ones on Sundays and holidays. Regardless of the etymology, the paella pan itself - flat, with two handles - has become an iconic symbol of the region.
At Casa Carmela, one of the oldest paella restaurants in Valencia, you can hear fascinating stories about the evolution of this dish. According to the owners' family tradition, paella was originally a rural dish, prepared by farm workers in the rice fields of Albufera. They used whatever was available: rice, rabbit, snails, beans, and sometimes duck. Interestingly, seafood was not part of the original recipe - seafood paella (paella de marisco) is a relatively new invention that gained popularity with the development of tourism in the 1960s.
Traditional Valencian paella has strictly defined ingredients, and any deviation from the canon sparks heated debate among purists. In 2013, a group of chefs and culinary experts from Valencia even created an official document defining what authentic Valencian paella is. According to this document, real paella contains: Senia, Bahia, or Bomba rice, rabbit, chicken, flat beans (bajoqueta), large white beans (garrofón), tomatoes, olive oil, saffron, rosemary, salt, and water. No seafood, chorizo, or peas!
At La Pepica, a historic restaurant on the seafront, you can learn how paella became an international dish. It was the seaside restaurants, serving the first tourists arriving in Valencia, that contributed to the spread of this dish beyond the borders of Spain. Hemingway, who was reportedly a frequent guest at La Pepica, mentioned Valencian paella in his writings, which further contributed to its international fame.
For those who want to explore modern interpretations of traditional recipes, Arrosseria Flor de València offers a fascinating experience. The chefs at this restaurant experiment with different techniques and ingredients to create innovative versions of classic rice dishes. One of their specialties is paella with duck and foie gras—a luxurious interpretation of a traditional country dish that shows how far Valencian cuisine has evolved.
An interesting aspect of paella culture is also the social dimension of its consumption. Traditionally, paella is a dish that brings family and friends together—everyone eats directly from the pan, starting from the edges and moving towards the center. This custom can be observed in many restaurants, such as El Trompo Restaurante, where paella is served in the middle of the table and guests are given wooden spoons instead of forks. It is a communal experience that goes beyond just eating.
For budget-conscious travelers who want to try authentic paella without breaking the bank, there are some clever strategies. One is to take advantage of takeaway options at places like Arrocería Ricepaella Delivery Take Away or La Taberna Casera. Another option is to look for a menu del día in less touristy parts of the city—many local restaurants offer a complete paella meal at a much lower price than popular tourist spots.
Masusa paella bar represents the latest trend in paella culture—casual, affordable places aimed at a younger crowd. These modern bars combine traditional recipes with contemporary design and atmosphere, often offering cocktails and tapas as well. This is proof that paella, despite its long history, remains a vibrant, evolving part of Valencian culture.
Es.paella, on the other hand, introduces an innovative approach to serving, offering smaller portions of different types of rice, allowing guests to sample several varieties. This is a great option for those who want to explore the diversity of Valencian rice cuisine without having to order full portions.
Whether you choose a historic restaurant by the sea, an elegant arrocería in the city center, or a modern paella bar, experiencing authentic Valencian cuisine remains one of the most important aspects of visiting this fascinating city. Paella is not just a dish—it is a window into the culture, history, and soul of Valencia, allowing you to better understand and appreciate Spain's third-largest city.
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