Trattoria Ermes: the story of a restaurant that has been serving the same menu since 1963

January 11, 2026

In the heart of Modena, a city famous for Ferrari, balsamic vinegar, and the Ghirlandina tower, there is an inconspicuous restaurant that has become an equally important symbol of this Italian city. Trattoria Ermes, founded on November 4, 1963, is a place where time has stood still and traditional Emilian cuisine has been served unchanged for almost six decades. This legendary osteria, tucked away on Via Ganaceto, attracts both locals and tourists seeking the authentic taste of the Emilia-Romagna region. The small space, simple menu that changes according to the day of the week, and atmosphere of true Italian hospitality make Trattoria Ermes not just a restaurant, but a true cultural institution in Modena.

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The history and heritage of a culinary legend

Trattoria Ermes began its activity on November 4, 1963, when its founder and patron, Ermes, opened a small restaurant at Via Ganaceto 89 in Modena. For decades, Ermes and his wife Bruna, who was the heart of the kitchen, welcomed a growing group of customers to their cozy restaurant. Bruna, a master of traditional Emilian cuisine, created a menu that became the foundation of the trattoria's reputation and remains unchanged to this day.

The history of this place is inextricably linked to the history of Modena itself. At a time when most restaurants follow culinary trends and constantly modify their menus, Trattoria Ermes remains unchanged—like a rock in a sea of gastronomic novelties. This consistency and fidelity to tradition have made the restaurant more than just a place to eat a good meal. It is a living monument to the culinary heritage of the region.

After Ermes' death in January 2023, the restaurant passed into the hands of a new owner. Alessandro Dolcini, a young entrepreneur from Modena, was chosen by the Rinaldi family as the successor to continue the founder's legacy. It was a turning point for the restaurant, which had been run by the same family for decades. The Modena community watched this change with concern, fearing that the new owner might decide to modernize and move away from tradition.

However, Dolcini proved to be a worthy successor to Ermes. He understood that the strength of this place lies precisely in its consistency and authenticity. He kept the traditional lunch menu, adding only an evening menu served three times a week (Thursday through Saturday) and Sunday lunches. These changes, though subtle, allowed him to attract new customers without compromising the spirit of the place.

Trattoria Ermes can safely be called a living culinary museum. Guests who visited this place in the 1960s or 1970s can return today and find the same flavors, the same aromas, and the same atmosphere. It is a culinary experience that transcends time and allows for a true journey into the past.

It is worth noting that Trattoria Ermes is not a place for those looking for exquisite cuisine or elegant decor. It is a place for true lovers of authentic Italian cuisine, served without pretension or unnecessary embellishments. Simplicity is a virtue here, and the quality of the ingredients and traditional methods of preparation are more important than trendy presentations or culinary experiments.

Over the years, Trattoria Ermes has also witnessed social changes in Italy. Students and professors, workers and businessmen, tourists and locals have gathered at its tables. It is a place that brings together people of different generations and backgrounds, creating a unique social space where everyone is equal in front of a plate of excellent tagliatelle al ragù.

Culinary philosophy and legendary menu

Trattoria Ermes' culinary philosophy is based on simplicity, authenticity, and respect for the traditions of the Emilia-Romagna region. Unlike many contemporary restaurants, which are constantly searching for new flavors and experimenting with fusion cuisine, Ermes remains faithful to classic recipes passed down from generation to generation. This approach may seem conservative, but in reality, it is an expression of a deep understanding of the value of culinary heritage.

The menu at Trattoria Ermes changes according to the day of the week, creating a unique culinary rhythm that regulars know by heart. This cyclical nature is characteristic of traditional Italian homes, where specific dishes were prepared on specific days of the week. In this way, the restaurant recreates not only the flavors but also the rhythm of life typical of the Emilia-Romagna region.

The historic tagliatelle al ragù, the restaurant's signature dish, is available every day. This classic Emilian pasta with meat sauce is prepared according to the unchanged recipe of Bruna, the founder's wife. The secret of this dish lies in the long, slow cooking of the sauce, which acquires depth and intensity of flavor. It is worth noting that authentic Bolognese ragù differs significantly from what is known in many countries as 'spaghetti Bolognese' – it is thicker, meatier and served with wider pasta.

In addition to this everyday classic, the menu offers a variety of specialties depending on the day of the week. On Mondays, guests can enjoy lasagna and roast rabbit - a dish that has a long tradition in the Emilia-Romagna region and is prepared with herbs and white wine. Wednesdays are the day for Milanese cutlet (cotoletta alla milanese), which at Trattoria Ermes is perfectly crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside.

Thursdays are reserved for fried chicken, prepared according to a traditional method that ensures a crispy skin and juicy meat. Saturdays are a real treat for the palate, with a menu offering tortellini - small dumplings stuffed with a mixture of meats, characteristic of the Modena region, roast veal and guanciale (pork cheek) stewed in Chianti wine.

Other specialties that have gained fame at Trattoria Ermes include quadretti in brodo with chicken livers - a delicate broth with small square pieces of dough and the addition of livers, passatelli - a type of pasta made from breadcrumbs, Parmesan cheese, and eggs, zampone with beans - a traditional holiday dish consisting of stuffed pork leg served with beans, and bollito with green sauce - boiled meat served with a parsley and caper-based sauce.

What distinguishes the cuisine of Trattoria Ermes is not only its fidelity to traditional recipes, but also the quality of its ingredients. The restaurant uses local products, often sourced from small suppliers who continue traditional methods of cultivation and breeding. This attention to raw materials is the foundation of the restaurant's culinary philosophy and the key to the unique taste of the dishes served.

The portions at Trattoria Ermes are generous, in keeping with the Emilian tradition, where food has always been an expression of hospitality and prosperity. The dishes are aromatic, full of flavor, and prepared with attention to every detail. There is no room here for culinary tricks or fancy decorations - what counts is taste and authenticity.

It is worth mentioning that the prices at Trattoria Ermes remain affordable, which is further proof that this restaurant does not follow market trends but continues the tradition of home cooking accessible to everyone. It is a place where you can experience the true taste of Emilia-Romagna at a reasonable price.

Atmosphere and cultural significance

The space at Trattoria Ermes is as authentic and unchanged as its menu. The restaurant can seat about thirty guests at a time, creating an intimate, almost homely atmosphere. The interior is modest and unpretentious—long tables set close together in a small room, simple chairs, traditional checkered tablecloths, and minimalist decor. There is no room here for designer furniture or trendy decorations—Trattoria Ermes is the essence of Italian simplicity and functionality.

This intimate arrangement of space is not accidental – it encourages spontaneous social interaction. At Trattoria Ermes, strangers often become dining companions, sharing not only a table but also wine, conversation, and atmosphere. It is a place where acquaintances and sometimes even friendships are formed, all accompanied by the clatter of cutlery and aromas wafting from the kitchen.

Trattoria Ermes has become an integral part of Modena's identity, standing alongside such icons of the city as the Ghirlandina tower and Ferrari. It is a living testimony to the culinary history of the region and an important part of its intangible cultural heritage. For many Modena residents, a visit to Trattoria Ermes is not only an opportunity to enjoy a good meal, but also a way to maintain ties with their own culture and tradition.

For decades, the restaurant has attracted a diverse clientele, from students to professors, from locals to tourists from all over the world. It has become a witness to and participant in the social fabric of contemporary Italy, a place where different strata of society meet at the same table. This democratization of the dining space is characteristic of Italian food culture, where good cuisine is available to everyone, regardless of social status or wallet size.

It is worth noting that Trattoria Ermes is not just a place to eat—it is a cultural space where tradition, community, and the pleasure of sharing a meal are celebrated. At a time when fast food and standardized restaurant chains are becoming increasingly popular, places like Ermes are becoming bastions of authenticity and guardians of culinary heritage.

For tourists visiting Modena, a visit to Trattoria Ermes is an opportunity to experience the true, non-touristy face of Italian cuisine. It is a place that is not listed in guidebooks as a tourist attraction, but as an authentic cultural experience. Foreign guests are often surprised by the simplicity of the place and the food, but after the first bite, they understand why Trattoria Ermes is so highly regarded among connoisseurs of Italian cuisine.

It is worth mentioning that due to its small size and popularity, finding a free table at Trattoria Ermes can be a challenge, especially at lunchtime. The restaurant does not accept reservations, which is another manifestation of its democratic character – everyone has an equal chance of getting a seat, regardless of whether they are a regular or visiting the restaurant for the first time.

Trattoria Ermes is more than a restaurant—it is a cultural institution that has served as a meeting place, a forum for the exchange of ideas, and a celebration of the culinary traditions of the Emilia-Romagna region for nearly six decades. Its significance extends far beyond gastronomy, making it one of the most important points on Modena's cultural map. It is a living monument to Italian food culture, where the past meets the present, creating a unique experience that remains in the memory long after leaving its hospitable doors.

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