The Temple of Eternal Peace: This is where the soto zen sect was founded in the 13th century
June 18, 2025
In the verdant mountains of Fukui Prefecture, surrounded by centuries-old cedars, rises Eiheiji - the monumental Temple of Eternal Peace, one of the most important sites in the history of Zen Buddhism. It was here in 1244 that Master Dogen, upon his return from China, founded the main temple of the soto zen school, which became the cradle of one of the most important strands of Buddhism in Japan. For nearly eight centuries, Eiheiji has continuously functioned as an active monastery, where monks undergo the rigorous practice of zazen (sitting meditation) and live according to the strict rules established by the founder. Today, this impressive temple complex, consisting of more than 70 buildings connected by winding corridors, attracts not only pilgrims but also tourists fascinated by Japan's spiritual heritage.
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History and significance of Eiheiji
Eiheiji, whose name literally means 'Temple of Eternal Peace,' was founded in 1244 by Master Dogen Zenji (1200-1253), one of the most important figures in the history of Japanese Buddhism. After studying for several years in China, where he explored the teachings of khan Buddhism (the Chinese equivalent of Zen), Dogen returned to Japan to spread the practice of what later became known as soto zen, a trend emphasizing the importance of 'simply sitting' (shikantaza) as a path to enlightenment.
Dogen initially established the Kosho-ji temple near Kyoto, but in search of a quieter place to practice, he moved away from the political intrigues of the capital and relocated to the remote mountainous province of Echizen (present-day Fukui Prefecture). There, with the support of local magnate Hatano Yoshishige, he established Eiheiji, a place that was to become the center of soto zen teaching in Japan.
Originally named Daibutsu-ji (Temple of the Great Buddha), the temple received its current name in 1246. For the first few years, it was a small center where Dogen and a group of devoted disciples led an austere monastic life, while writing down his teachings, which made up the monumental work 'Shobogenzo' (Treasury of the True Dharma Eye) - the foundational text of the soto zen school.
After Dogen's death in 1253, his disciple Koun Ejo took over leadership of the temple. However, Eiheiji's real heyday did not come until the Edo period (1603-1868), when the Tokugawa shogunate officially recognized soto zen as one of the state schools of Buddhism. During this time, the temple complex was expanded to an impressive size, and Eiheiji, along with Soji-ji (the sect's other main temple), became the administrative and spiritual center for hundreds of soto zen temples throughout Japan.
Throughout its long history, Eiheiji has fallen victim several times to fires, which are a common threat to the wooden structures of Japanese temples. The most serious one occurred in 1473, when most of the buildings burned down. The current structures date mainly from the Edo and Meiji periods, although some were rebuilt after World War II damage.
Today, Eiheiji remains one of the most important training centers for soto zen monks. At any given time, the monastery is home to some 200 monks who undergo rigorous training, covering all aspects of life - from meditation to physical labor to daily activities like eating and bathing. All of this is done according to the rules established by Dogen, for whom every activity performed with full mindfulness was a form of Zen practice.
Eiheiji's significance goes far beyond its role as a training center. It is a living testament to the continuity of the Zen tradition in Japan, a place where Dogen's teachings have been practiced in almost unchanged form for eight centuries. For followers of Soto Zen Buddhism around the world, Eiheiji is a spiritual home, a place of pilgrimage and a source of inspiration.
In the broader context of Japanese culture, Eiheiji represents a deep connection between Zen Buddhism and Japanese aesthetics and philosophy of life. The Zen influence can be seen in areas such as architecture, gardening, tea ceremony, calligraphy and martial arts. They all draw from Zen ideals of simplicity, naturalness and attentiveness, which are so clearly present in the lives of Eiheiji monks.
In 2015, Eiheiji was included in Japan's UNESCO World Heritage Candidate List, highlighting its unique cultural and historical value not only to Japan, but to humanity as a whole.
Architecture and layout of the temple complex
Eiheiji is a monumental temple complex that sprawls across a mountainside, surrounded by a centuries-old cedar forest. Its architecture and spatial layout reflect both the practical aspects of monastic life and deep Zen philosophy, emphasizing harmony with nature and simplicity of form.
The entire complex consists of more than 70 buildings connected to each other by covered corridors, allowing monks to move between them regardless of weather conditions. The buildings are arranged according to the traditional layout of Zen temples, but adapted to the mountainous terrain, giving Eiheiji a unique 'temple in the clouds' feel.
The entrance to the complex is through the Sanmon (Mountain Gate), an imposing two-story structure that symbolically separates the outside world from the sacred space. This gate, reconstructed in 1749, is one of the oldest surviving elements of the complex. After crossing the Sanmon, visitors enter the Sando - the main path leading deep into the temple, along which other buildings are arranged.
The heart of the complex is the Hatto (Dharma Hall) - the place where the abbot gives teachings and important ceremonies are held. Its interior is decorated with an impressive ceiling with a painting depicting a dragon, the work of artist Taniguchi Gesso in 1969. Next door is the Butsuden (Buddha Hall), the main place of worship, where a statue of Shakyamuni Buddha is kept, surrounded by images of Zen patriarchs.
One of the most important buildings is the Sodo (Monks' Hall), a place where monks practice zazen (sitting meditation). It is here, on simple tatami mats, that they spend many hours a day in a meditative position, performing the basic practice of soto zen. This hall is the spiritual heart of the monastery, the place where the essence of Dogen's teachings about 'just sitting' as the path to enlightenment is realized.
Another key building is the Kuin (Kitchen), a space to which Dogen gave special attention in his writings. According to his teachings, preparing meals is as important a spiritual practice as meditation. At Eiheiji, meals are prepared with the utmost care and respect for food, following the traditional rules of Zen cuisine (shojin ryori).
An important part of the complex is also the Yokushitsu (Bathhouse), a place where monks perform ritual ablutions. For the Dogen, bathing was not only a hygienic activity, but also a spiritual practice, an opportunity to purify both body and mind.
Eiheiji's architecture is characterized by elements typical of Japanese Buddhist temples: curved tile roofs, wooden structures without nails, sliding walls made of washi paper (shoji) and open verandas (engawa) that connect the interior with the surrounding nature.
A unique feature of Eiheiji architecture are the long, covered corridors that connect the various buildings. Often running along steep slopes, these corridors form a labyrinth that may seem disorienting to the uninitiated. For monks, however, they provide a space for the daily practice of mindful walking (kinhin), a complement to sitting meditation.
The temple's surroundings are an equally important part of the complex. Eiheiji is surrounded by a centuries-old cedar forest, which forms a natural barrier separating the temple from the outside world. This forest, along with the mountainous landscape, is an integral part of the spiritual experience, in keeping with the Zen-Buddhist belief in the deep connection between man and nature.
Unlike many other Japanese temples, Eiheiji does not have elaborate Zen gardens. Instead, the natural mountain landscape serves as a contemplative space. According to soto zen philosophy, nature itself is a perfect garden, requiring no human interference.
The materials used to build the temple - mainly cedar and cypress wood - also reflect the zen philosophy. They are natural, simple and, over time, acquire a patina that emphasizes the transient nature of all things (mujo) - one of the key concepts of Buddhism.
Life at Eiheiji and the experience for visitors
Life at Eiheiji follows a strict schedule that has changed little since the Dogen era. The monks' day begins at 3:30 am (in summer) or 4:30 am (in winter) with the sound of a wooden gong (han). After morning ablutions, monks gather in the Sodo (Monks' Hall) for the first session of zazen - sitting meditation, which is the core of soto zen practice.
Daily life at the monastery is completely subservient to the principle that Dogen referred to as 'shikantaza' - 'simply sitting'. However, in the soto zen tradition, spiritual practice is not limited to formal meditation. According to Dogen's teachings, any activity performed with full mindfulness is a form of practice. Therefore, all aspects of monastic life - from preparing meals to cleaning to bathing - are treated as opportunities to practice mindfulness.
Meals at Eiheiji are eaten according to the formal rules of the oryoki - a set of bowls and chopsticks that each monk carries with him. Eating is done in complete silence, with full concentration on each bite. The menu consists exclusively of vegetarian dishes, in accordance with the Buddhist principle of not harming living beings. The monastery's cuisine, known as shojin ryori, is renowned for its simplicity and use of seasonal ingredients.
Manual labor (samu) is an important part of life at Eiheiji. Monks are involved in temple maintenance, cleaning, gardening and food preparation. All of these activities are performed with the same attentiveness as formal meditation, in accordance with the Zen-Buddhist principle of the inseparability of work and spiritual practice.
Discipline at Eiheiji is extremely strict. Monks sleep on simple tatami mats, often for only a few hours a day. Bathing is done together, in a traditional Japanese bathhouse (ofuro). Conversation is kept to a minimum, and most communication is done through gestures and the sound signals of various percussion instruments, such as wooden gongs (han), bells (bonsho) and knockers (kaishaku).
Formal ceremonies and rituals, such as the recitation of sutras, offerings to the Buddha and Zen patriarchs, and special rituals associated with important dates in the Buddhist calendar, are also an important part of monastic life. All of these activities are performed with the utmost precision and according to traditions passed down from generation to generation.
For visitors, Eiheiji offers a unique opportunity to experience the atmosphere of an authentic Zen monastery. Unlike many other historic temples in Japan, Eiheiji is not primarily a tourist attraction, but a living, functioning monastic center where tourists are merely guests in the world of the monks.
Visits to Eiheiji are possible daily from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. (last entry at 3:00 p.m.). Visitors can follow designated routes that take them through the complex's main buildings, such as Sanmon (Mountain Gate), Hatto (Dharma Hall), Butsuden (Buddha Hall) and Joyoden (Founder's Hall). During the tour, you can observe the daily life of the monks, although be sure to keep quiet and respect the practitioners.
For those interested in a deeper experience of Zen life, Eiheiji offers the Sanzen Dojo program - one-day or multi-day stays during which lay participants can experience a substitute for monastic life. This program includes participation in zazen meditation, meals, physical labor and religious ceremonies. This is a unique opportunity to experience firsthand the rigorous discipline of zazen, although it should be remembered that even in this relaxed form it poses a serious challenge to the unprepared.
Getting to Eiheiji is possible from the city of Fukui, which is the capital of the prefecture of the same name. From Fukui Station, you can take a bus directly to the temple in about 30 minutes. Alternatively, you can take the local Echizen Railway line to Eiheijiguchi Station, and from there take a bus to the temple.
The best time to visit Eiheijiguchi is in late spring (May-June) or autumn (October-November), when the weather is mild and the forest surrounding the temple looks most beautiful - in spring in fresh greenery, in autumn in the spectacular colors of the momiji maples. In winter, the temple is often covered with snow, which creates a magical atmosphere, although it can make access and sightseeing difficult.
It is worth remembering that as a religious site, Eiheiji requires visitors to dress and behave appropriately. Modest clothing that covers the shoulders and knees is recommended. Shoes should be removed before entering the buildings. Photography is allowed in most places, but forbidden during religious ceremonies and in some particularly sacred spaces.
Visiting Eiheiji is not only an opportunity to admire historic architecture or beautiful landscapes. Above all, it's an opportunity to experience the atmosphere of authentic Zen - the silence, concentration and deep harmony with nature that are the essence of this spiritual tradition.
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