Pavlova: The history of the dessert'which-to this day-is-the bone of contention between Australia and New Zealand

July 27, 2025

Pavlova - a fluffy, crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, this meringue dessert, garnished with fresh whipped cream and fruit, is not only a culinary delight, but also the subject of one of the world's fiercest culinary disputes. For decades, Australia and New Zealand have been engaged in an ongoing debate over which country can claim the right to invent this sweet treat. Named after Russian prima ballerina Anna Pavlova, the dessert has become an icon of both countries' cuisines and a symbol of national pride. The story of pavlova is a fascinating tale of culinary rivalry, national identity and how one simple dessert can become the subject of an international dispute spanning nearly a century.

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Genesis of pavlova - the Origins dispute

The history of pavlova begins in the 1920s, when Russian prima ballerina Anna Pavlova toured Australia and New Zealand. Her performances made a huge impression on the people of both countries, and her lightness and grace on stage inspired confectioners to create a dessert to reflect these qualities - light as a ballerina's dance, with a crisp shell reminiscent of the tulle of her skirt and a soft interior symbolizing the delicacy of her movements.

According to the Australian version, pavlova was created by the chef of the Esplanade Hotel in Perth, Bert Sachse, in 1935. He was said to have invented the dessert specifically in honor of Anna Pavlova during her visit to Australia. The Australian claims that the name 'pavlova' first appeared in an Australian cookbook during this very period.

The New Zealand version of the story is quite different. According to it, pavlova was invented by a chef in Wellington, and a recipe for a dessert called 'Pavlova Cake' was published in New Zealand's Ladies Mirror magazine as early as 1926, which would suggest that New Zealand is the true home of the delicacy.

The dispute over the origin of pavlova has become almost diplomatic. For both countries, the dessert has become an element of national culinary identity and a symbol of pride. Interestingly, the original versions of the dessert differed somewhat from what we know today. Early recipes described pavlova as a multilayered pastry with cream, not a meringue as we know it today.

In 2008, Dr. Helen Leach, a food anthropologist at the University of Otago in New Zealand, published a book, 'The Pavlova Story,' in which she presented the results of her research into the dessert's origins. According to her findings, the first recipes for a dessert called 'pavlova' actually appeared in New Zealand in the 1920s, which could speak in favor of the New Zealand version of the story.

However, the matter is not so simple. Australian culinary historians point out that while the name may have appeared earlier in New Zealand, it was in Australia that the dessert took its current form - a fluffy meringue with a crunchy shell and soft interior. They also argue that early New Zealand recipes for 'pavlova' described a very different dessert from the one we know today.

In 2010, the Oxford English Dictionary, considered an authority on etymological matters, gave precedence to New Zealand, defining pavlova as 'a dessert, consisting of a meringue with a crispy shell and soft interior, decorated with fruit and whipped cream, named after the Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova. Origin: early 20th century: from New Zealand'. The decision caused an uproar in Australia, where many chefs and culinary historians disagreed.

Regardless of which country actually invented pavlova, the dessert has become an integral part of the culinary traditions of both nations. In Australia, pavlova is a traditional holiday dessert, especially popular at Christmas, which in the southern hemisphere falls in the summer. The Australian version often includes tropical fruits such as mango and passion fruit. In New Zealand, pavlova is also an integral part of the Christmas table, but it is more often decorated with kiwi, which is the country's symbol.

Culinary symbol of national identity

Pavlova is much more than just a dessert - it is a symbol of national identity for both Australians and New Zealanders. In both countries, it is deeply ingrained in the culinary culture and a source of pride. Interestingly, despite the ongoing dispute over its origins, the way pavlova is prepared and served varies somewhat from country to country.

In Australia, pavlova often takes the form of a large, round dessert that is shared among the revelers. The Australian version usually has a crunchier crust and is garnished with tropical fruits such as mango, pineapple or passion fruit, reflecting the country's warm climate. Australians are particularly fond of pavlova as a holiday dessert, perfect for summer Christmas, which in the southern hemisphere falls in the middle of summer.

New Zealand pavlova tends to be slightly smaller and fluffier, with a less crunchy crust. New Zealanders often garnish it with kiwi, which is the country's national symbol, as well as other local fruits such as berries and strawberries. In New Zealand, pavlova is also a popular holiday dessert, but it also appears on tables at other family celebrations.

Interestingly, despite differences in preparation and serving methods, the basic recipe for pavlova remains similar in both countries. It consists of a meringue that is baked at a low temperature for a long period of time to achieve a distinctive texture - crunchy on the outside and soft, almost marshmallow-like on the inside. The meringue is then decorated with fresh whipped cream and fruit.

The dispute over the origin of pavlova has become part of a broader cultural rivalry between Australia and New Zealand. The two countries, despite their geographic proximity and many similarities, seek to emphasize their distinctiveness and uniqueness. Pavlova has become one of the symbols of this rivalry, along with issues such as the origins of the band Crowded House and actor Russell Crowe.

In 2017, a genetic study was conducted to determine the origin of kiwi, a fruit often used to decorate pavlova. The results indicated that the kiwi originated in China, not New Zealand, as was widely believed. This discovery added another dimension to the ongoing culinary dispute, showing how complicated issues of origin and cultural identity can be.

In recent years, there have been voices suggesting that pavlova may have yet another origin. Some culinary historians point to similarities between pavlova and traditional European desserts such as the German Schaum torta and the Austrian Spanische Windtorte. This suggests that the inspiration for pavlova may have come from Europe, and the dessert was merely adapted and named after Anna Pavlova in Australia or New Zealand.

Regardless of its actual origin, pavlova has become one of the most recognizable desserts from the Australasian region and is known worldwide. Local adaptations of this dessert can be found in many countries, often adapted to local tastes and available ingredients.

In New Zealand, one place to try authentic pavlova is Cibo restaurant in Auckland. Located in the trendy Parnell district, this elegant spot is famous for its New Zealand cuisine with European influences. Cibo offers its version of pavlova, which is considered one of the best in the city. This dessert is prepared according to a traditional New Zealand recipe, with fluffy meringue and fresh local fruit. The restaurant is a prime example of how pavlova has become an integral part of New Zealand's culinary scene and how it is celebrated as part of the national heritage.

Cibo's pavlova menu often features pavlova as a seasonal dessert, prepared with the freshest fruits available. In summer, this might include berries and kiwi, while at other times of the year, the chef can experiment with different flavor combinations, but always maintaining the essence of traditional pavlova - fluffy meringue and fresh whipped cream.

Modern pavlova and its place in global cuisine

Modern pavlova, whether it is prepared in Australia, New Zealand or anywhere else in the world, retains its distinctive characteristics - crispy on the outside and soft on the inside with meringue, garnished with fresh whipped cream and fruit. But as the dessert gained popularity around the world, chefs began experimenting with different variations and interpretations of the classic recipe.

At Cibo restaurant in Auckland, one of New Zealand's most highly regarded restaurants, pavlova is treated with due respect to tradition, but with a touch of modernity. Cibo chefs often experiment with different additions to the classic pavlova, such as passionfruit cream, forest fruit sauce or even chocolate elements. This restaurant is a perfect example of how a traditional dessert can be reinterpreted in a modern way, while retaining its distinctive character.

In recent years, pavlova has inspired many other desserts and pastry techniques. 'mini pavlovas', individual servings of the dessert, ideal for parties and catering, have become popular. There have also been 'pavlova rolls,' where the meringue is baked as a flat cake and then rolled with the filling, much like a roulade. Some confectioners are experimenting with adding different flavors to meringue, such as coffee, chocolate or even spices, creating exciting new variations on the classic dessert.

Pavlova has also found its place in the world of professional gastronomy. Many renowned chefs around the world include pavlova on their menus, often in a modern, deconstructed form. The elements of pavlova - meringue, custard, fruit - are presented in new and artistic ways, creating dishes that are both an homage to tradition and an expression of culinary innovation.

In the age of social media, pavlova has also become a popular subject for culinary influencers and bloggers. Its photogenic appearance - white meringue contrasting with colorful fruit - makes it look great in photos, which has contributed to its growing popularity online. The hashtag #pavlova on Instagram generates thousands of posts showing various interpretations of this dessert from around the world.

Despite the global popularity of pavlova, the dispute over its origin between Australia and New Zealand continues. In 2020, during the COVID-19 pandemic, when the two countries closed their borders, there were humorous comments that it was the perfect time to settle once and for all to whom pavlova belongs. Some even suggested that the solution could be to recognize pavlova as a common heritage of both countries, as is the case with some culinary traditions shared by neighboring nations.

Regardless of which country can actually claim to have invented pavlova, the dessert has become a symbol of culinary creativity and adaptation. It shows how recipes and culinary traditions evolve and are passed between cultures, often changing and adapting to local tastes and available ingredients.

At Cibo, as at many other restaurants in New Zealand, pavlova is not just a dessert, but also a part of cultural heritage. The chefs treat it with the respect due an iconic dish, while not being afraid to experiment and introduce new elements. This approach reflects a broader trend in New Zealand cuisine that draws on tradition, but is also open to innovation and influences from around the world.

Pavlova also remains a popular homemade dessert, prepared for special occasions and family celebrations. In many homes in Australia and New Zealand, the recipe for pavlova is passed down from generation to generation, often with slight modifications and secrets that make each version unique. This shows how deeply rooted this dessert is in the culinary culture of both countries.

Ultimately, whether pavlova was invented in Australia or New Zealand, it has become a symbol of the culinary excellence and creativity of the Australasian region. Its history, full of rivalries and national pride, only adds to the flavor of this unique dessert that has conquered the palates of people around the world.

If you ever find yourself in Auckland, it's worth a visit to Cibo restaurant to try their interpretation of this iconic dessert. Whether you side with Australia or New Zealand in the argument over the origin of pavlova, one thing is for sure - this fluffy, sweet treat is sure to please your palate and leave you with an unforgettable experience.

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