Ushguli: A skiing paradise in the heart of the Caucasus and why it's worth considering this medieval Georgian town

Ushguli: A skiing paradise in the heart of the Caucasus and why it's worth considering this medieval Georgian town

June 11, 2025

Lost among the majestic peaks of the Caucasus, Ushguli is a true gem of Georgia that delights history buffs and winter sports enthusiasts alike. Considered the highest permanently inhabited village in Europe (2,100 meters above sea level), this medieval settlement offers an unusual combination of authentic Svaneti culture, breathtaking views and excellent skiing conditions. The distinctive UNESCO-listed stone defense towers here have stood proudly for centuries, resisting not only invaders but also the passage of time. In winter, the surrounding slopes are covered with fluffy snow, creating a paradise for skiers seeking unspoiled trails away from crowded resorts. Ushguli is a place where history intertwines with nature, creating an experience that is impossible to forget.

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History and culture of Ushguli - the Medieval treasure trove of Svaneti

Ushguli, located in the heart of Georgia's Svaneti region, is not just a picturesque mountain settlement, but a true living open-air museum of medieval architecture and culture. It consists of four small villages, Zhibiani, Chvibiani, Chazhashi and Murkmeli, which together form a unique settlement complex listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The most striking features of the landscape are the defensive stone towers, known as 'koshki', reaching up to 25 meters in height. Erected between the 9th and 13th centuries, these imposing structures served the local population as shelter during numerous invasions and local conflicts. Today, some 20 such towers still tower over the settlement, bearing witness to the region's turbulent history.

It is worth noting that Ushguli remained virtually cut off from the outside world for centuries. The harsh climate, hard-to-reach location and many months of snow meant that residents had to be self-sufficient. This isolation contributed to the preservation of the unique culture of the Swans, the highlanders who inhabit the region and speak their own language, which belongs to the Cartwellian family of languages. The Swans are famous for their rich traditions, including polyphonic singing listed as an Intangible Heritage Site by UNESCO, and for their crafts, which can be admired in local museums.

One of the most important cultural sites in Ushguli is the Ushguli Museum, located in one of the historic towers. This intimate museum showcases exhibits related to the daily life of the Svaneti people over the centuries. Visitors can see traditional agricultural tools, pieces of weaponry, everyday objects and handicrafts. Of particular interest are collections of Svaneti jewelry, characterized by rich ornamentation and symbolism. The museum, though small in size, offers a fascinating insight into the lives of the highlanders, who faced harsh climatic and geopolitical conditions for centuries.

A more extensive exhibition is offered by the Ushguli Ethnographic Museum, which is housed in a traditional Svaneti house. This museum presents a reconstruction of a typical household with authentic furnishings, traditional furniture, utensils and costume items. Particularly valuable is the collection of hand-woven carpets and kilims with distinctive geometric patterns, which were not only part of the decor, but also a dowry passed down from generation to generation. The ethnographic museum also organizes demonstrations of traditional craft techniques, such as weaving and blacksmithing, which allows a better understanding of the daily life of the old inhabitants.

The spiritual center of Ushguli is the Lamaria (Mother of God) Church, dating from the 9th to 10th centuries. This small temple, located on a hill overlooking the entire settlement, is one of the most important religious monuments of the region. Inside, fragments of medieval frescoes have been preserved, depicting biblical scenes and images of saints. Particularly valuable are the icons made using the technique of repoussing in silver and gold - a traditional method characteristic of Georgian sacred art. The Lamaria Church still holds religious functions, and during holidays it gathers residents from all surrounding villages.

Near Ushguli, in the village of Lakhushdi, is the historic site of Sgobul - a medieval defense complex that was an important strategic point in Svaneti's defense system. It consists of several towers connected by defensive walls, forming a small fortress. Sgobul, although less well-known than Ushguli itself, is an equally fascinating testament to the region's military architecture and is worth a visit when exploring the area.

Ushguli's cultural life revolves around traditional holidays and festivals, the most important of which is Lamproba, a fire festival celebrated in March, symbolizing the victory of light over darkness. During the festivities, residents carry torches around the Lamaria Church and then light bonfires on the surrounding hills. Another important event is Kvirikoba, a summer festival in honor of St. Kvirike, during which there are processions, feasts and traditional sports competitions, including wrestling, which is popular among the Swans.

Ushguli as a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts

Ushguli, located at the foot of Georgia's highest peak, Shchara (5193 meters above sea level), is an excellent base for outdoor enthusiasts all year round. In winter, the region turns into a real paradise for skiers, especially those seeking an authentic experience away from commercial resorts. The surrounding slopes offer excellent conditions for off-piste skiing (freeride) and skydiving. The snow cover here usually lasts from November to April, and the snow quality is exceptional due to the altitude and specific microclimate. Unlike crowded European resorts, here you can enjoy pristine trails and almost unlimited freedom.

The property designated as 'უშგული' (Georgian name Ushguli) is a vast trekking area that turns into an unofficial ski resort in winter. Although you won't find lifts or infrastructure typical of Western resorts, it is this unspoiled nature that is attracting more and more adventure skiing enthusiasts. Local guides, who know the terrain very well, offer skydiving expeditions tailored to different levels of expertise. Particularly popular is the route leading from Ushguli towards the Shkhara Glacier, where spectacular views of the Caucasus' main ridge can be enjoyed.

In the spring, when the snow begins to melt, numerous trekking trails are revealed, making Ushguli one of the highlights of Georgia's hiking map. The 'Views of Ushguli mountains' area is not so much a specific place as a series of viewpoints scattered around the settlement, offering breathtaking panoramas of the surrounding peaks. Particularly recommended is the trail leading to Guri Hill, which offers views of all of Ushguli with its distinctive towers against a backdrop of snow-capped peaks. Another popular trail is the route to the Shkhara Glacier, which takes about 6-7 hours round trip and leads through picturesque alpine meadows and along rushing mountain streams.

Ushguli is also the beginning or end of the famous trekking route from Mestia to Ushguli, considered one of the most beautiful in the entire Caucasus. The four-day route leads through high mountain passes, traditional Svaneti villages and pristine valleys. For less experienced hikers, shorter, one-day trails around Ushguli itself are available, which also offer spectacular views and the opportunity to interact with local culture.

In summer, the region also attracts mountain biking enthusiasts. Trails of varying degrees of difficulty wind through the mountain paths, offering a combination of technical challenges and unforgettable scenery. Particularly popular is the route from Mestia to Ushguli, which can be completed in one intense day. However, it's worth reserving more time so you can stop at scenic spots and explore side paths.

Photography enthusiasts will find countless motifs to capture in and around Ushguli. The play of light on the stone towers at sunrise and sunset, the contrasts between medieval architecture and majestic peaks, as well as authentic scenes of local community life provide grateful subjects. Particularly photogenic is the vantage point labeled 'Views of Ushguli mountains', from where you can take panoramic photos of the entire settlement against the backdrop of Shchara.

For those looking for a comfortable place to relax after a day full of activity, '4 views of ushguli cottage' offers unique accommodation with views of the surrounding mountains. This traditional stone house has been adapted to meet the needs of tourists, retaining its authentic character but offering the necessary amenities. The four sides of the building offer different but equally impressive views of the mountainous landscape and medieval buildings of Ushguli. The property, unlike many other accommodations in the region, remains open year-round, making it a valuable spot for skiers visiting Ushguli in winter.

It is worth mentioning that active recreation in Ushguli has its own unique character due to the combination of adventure and cultural immersion. Wandering along the surrounding trails, one can come across shepherds grazing sheep using traditional methods, see locals working in the fields using techniques handed down from generation to generation, or hit a traditional festival. This authenticity of experience accounts for the uniqueness of an active vacation in this region.

Practical information and tips for visitors to Ushguli

When planning a trip to Ushguli, it is important to remember that it is one of the most remote and hard-to-reach inhabited settlements in Europe. This isolation, while logistically challenging, is also a guarantee of an authentic experience and lack of mass tourism. The best time to visit Ushguli is the months of June through September, when the roads are passable and the weather is favorable for trekking. For winter sports enthusiasts, the optimal period is February and March, when the snow cover is stable and the days become longer.

Getting to Ushguli requires patience and good planning. The nearest major city is Mestia, the capital of Upper Svaneti, about 45 km away. The road from Mestia to Ushguli is a challenge even in summer - it is narrow, partly unpaved and leads through steep slopes and passes. The trip takes about 3-4 hours, depending on conditions. In winter, the road is often impassable for regular vehicles and can only be accessed by 4x4 ATVs or snowmobiles. Consider hiring a local driver from Mestia, who knows the road and can handle the difficult conditions.

Accommodation in Ushguli is limited, but has developed significantly in recent years. Most accommodations are traditional guesthouses run by local families, offering basic but clean and comfortable conditions. One of the more interesting places is the aforementioned '4 views of ushguli cottage', which combines traditional architecture with panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. Accommodation prices are moderate, although they may increase during the peak summer season. It is worth remembering that most facilities do not accept card payments, so be sure to bring enough cash in Georgian lari.

Svaneti cuisine, which can be sampled in local gesthous and small restaurants, is a unique culinary experience. It is characterized by intense flavors and the use of local products. Be sure to try kubdari, a traditional bread stuffed with seasoned meat, and chvishtari, corn cakes with cheese. A local specialty is also Svaneti salt - a mixture of salt with various herbs and spices, used for meats and soups. Meals in Ushguli are usually hearty and inexpensive, and many hosts serve homemade wine and chacha (Georgian vodka).

When preparing for trekking in the Ushguli area, be sure to have the right equipment. Even in summer, the weather in the mountains can change quickly, so a waterproof jacket, warm fleece, comfortable trekking boots and headgear are essential. In winter, professional skiing or skydiving equipment is necessary, including avalanche equipment (detector, probe, shovel). Due to the limited availability of stores in Ushguli, most equipment should be brought with you or rented in Mestia.

It is worth knowing that cell phone coverage in Ushguli is limited, and internet available only in some gesthous and not always stable. This digital detoxification can be an added advantage for those who are looking for a real break from everyday life. At the same time, it's a good idea to inform your hosts of your planned route and expected return time before heading out on the trail.

When visiting museums and churches in Ushguli, remember to respect the local culture and traditions. When entering the Lamaria church, women should have their heads covered (a headscarf can be borrowed locally), and all visitors should be dressed appropriately (shoulders and knees covered). Photography inside the church is usually allowed, but without the use of flash. Museums may charge extra for photography, so it's worth asking before visiting.

Ushguli residents, though accustomed to tourists, value their privacy and traditional lifestyle. Taking pictures of people without their permission may be perceived as a gaffe. It is worth making contact, smiling and asking permission - this often results not only in better photos, but also in interesting conversations and an opportunity to learn more about the local culture.

Safety in the mountains should be a priority for anyone visiting Ushguli. Trails are not always well marked, and weather conditions can change quickly. For less experienced tourists, it is recommended to use the services of local guides, who will not only ensure safety, but also enrich the trip with knowledge of local history, culture and nature. The cost of hiring a guide is moderate and often worth it, especially for longer or more challenging routes.

Ushguli, despite its growing popularity, remains a place where you can experience authentic Georgian hospitality. The locals, though sometimes giving the impression of being harsh (a characteristic of the highlanders), are in fact extremely helpful and friendly. A spontaneous invitation for a home-cooked meal or wine tasting is not uncommon, and provides a unique opportunity to experience real life in this highland community.

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