If you like Wes Anderson's aesthetics then you'll like the place by the very Polish border where The Grand Budapest Hotel was filmed
June 11, 2025
On the very edge of Germany, just a few steps from the Polish border, stands a building that transports visitors to another dimension of space-time. Kaufhaus Görlitz is not only one of the best-preserved department stores from the early 20th century, but also a place that captivated Wes Anderson himself enough to make it the main setting of his film 'The Grand Budapest Hotel'. This architectural jewel in the Art Nouveau style, with its lavishly decorated staircases, elaborate chandeliers and ornate glass dome, is a veritable feast for lovers of the famous director's aesthetics. If you've ever dreamed of stepping into the world of symmetrical frames, pastel colors and nostalgic elegance characteristic of Anderson's films, Kaufhaus Görlitz is a must-visit place.
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History and architecture of an Art Nouveau department store
Kaufhaus Görlitz, opened with great pomp on September 30, 1913, is a prime example of the Art Nouveau architecture that dominated Europe at the turn of the 20th century. The building was designed with extraordinary attention to detail, which can be seen in every element of its construction - from the monumental staircase, to the intricate balustrades, to the impressive glass dome that floods the interior with natural light.
The history of the place is as fascinating as its architecture. The department store originally belonged to a local merchant, but by 1929 it was taken over by the Rudolph Karstadt AG chain, one of the largest retailers in Germany at the time. The fate of the building changed with the turbulent history of the region. After World War II, when Görlitz became part of the German Democratic Republic, the department store was nationalized and taken over by the state-owned HO (Handelsorganisation) trade organization. For decades it was one of the most important trading places in the eastern part of Germany.
The 1980s brought the first attempts to renovate the historic facade and interiors, demonstrating an appreciation of the building's architectural value even during the communist era. After German reunification, in 2005, the Karstadt Kompakt division was sold to the British investment group Dawnay Day, which later renamed it 'Hertie'. Unfortunately, in 2009 Hertie's owner announced the closure of all its branches, including the one in Görlitz, putting the future of the building in question.
The turning point came in 2013, when Winfried Stöcker, an entrepreneur with international interests in medical technology, acquired the department store with plans to reopen it as an all-purpose department store. However, these plans faced numerous obstacles, and renovation work dragged on. In 2016-2017, the original plans to reopen were delayed due to the need for significant restoration and renovation work. In addition, the project was put on hold in 2020 due to a dispute over the demolition of two nearby buildings.
What sets Kaufhaus Görlitz apart from other historic buildings is the remarkable authenticity of its interiors. Despite the passage of more than a century, many of the original furnishings have survived to this day in almost intact condition. Wooden store counters from the early 20th century, brass fittings, original signs and indicators - all create an atmosphere as if time had stopped. Particularly impressive are the staircases with original balustrades that lead to successive floors of the building, offering ever-new perspectives on the central lobby with its dome.
The interior of the department store covers an impressive area of more than 7,000 square meters, spread over several levels. Each floor has its own unique character, but all share the same elegance and attention to detail. The central part of the building, topped by a glass dome, is the heart of the entire complex. It is here that visitors most often stop, fascinated by the play of light and space.
The facade of the building, decorated in the Art Nouveau style, with floral and geometric ornaments characteristic of the era, is the highlight of An der Frauenkirche street. Large display windows, once showcasing the latest merchandise and trends, now provide a peek inside this architectural marvel. Every detail of the facade was carefully designed, creating a harmonious whole that still delights passersby and attracts architecture lovers from all over the world.
Kaufhaus Görlitz as a setting of 'The Grand Budapest Hotel'
A landmark moment in the more recent history of Kaufhaus Görlitz was its use as the main set for the film 'The Grand Budapest Hotel' by Wes Anderson. The American director, known for his distinctive visual style, perfectly symmetrical frames and pastel color palette, could not have dreamed of a better place to set his story. The film, which premiered in 2014, won four Oscars and has become one of Anderson's most recognizable works, and with it, the building itself has also become recognizable.
For the film, the interiors of Kaufhaus Görlitz were transformed into the fictional Grand Budapest Hotel, a luxury Alpine resort from the 1930s. The film crew primarily used the monumental staircase, the central lobby with its dome, and the elevators, which became iconic elements of the set design. Remarkably, most of the original design elements of the department store fit perfectly into Anderson's vision, requiring only cosmetic changes and set additions.
The presence of the film crew in Görlitz was a significant event for the entire city. For several months, the streets were filled with production members, actors and extras. Among the stars who could be seen around the department store were Ralph Fiennes, Tilda Swinton, Bill Murray, Edward Norton and many others. For the local community, it was a time of revival and excitement, and a chance to be on the international cultural map.
After the film's release, Kaufhaus Görlitz gained new life as a tourist attraction. Fans of Wes Anderson's work from all over the world have begun making pilgrimages to the site, wanting to see for themselves the scenery that so captivated them on screen. For many, this is an opportunity to literally step into the world of the film, feel its atmosphere and take souvenir photos in a setting that seems to have been transferred straight from the director's imagination.
Interestingly, this is not the first time Görlitz has hosted a film crew. Due to its perfectly preserved historical buildings, the city has been used as an outdoor setting for many productions before, including Quentin Tarantino's 'Inglourious Basterds' and 'The Lektor' with Kate Winslet. However, it was 'The Grand Budapest Hotel' that brought the city the most publicity and led to Görlitz being referred to as 'Görliwood'.
For fans of Wes Anderson's aesthetics, a visit to Kaufhaus Görlitz is a true feast for the senses. Every corner of the building seems to be perfectly composed, as if it were a frame from a movie. The symmetry of the architecture, the pastel hues of the walls, the gold accents and the geometric patterns all create the impression that we are in one of the director's film worlds. Not surprisingly, the place has become a mecca for fans of his work.
However, Kaufhaus Görlitz is not just a film set. It is first and foremost a living witness to history, having survived two world wars, the communist period and the political transformation. Every element of its architecture tells the story of a bygone era, when department stores were not only places of commerce, but also centers of social and cultural life. Walking through its corridors, one can almost hear the echoing footsteps of the elegant ladies and gentlemen of the early 20th century who came here not only to shop, but also to see and be seen.
It's worth noting details that you might have missed while watching the film. Original wooden store counters, brass fittings, Art Nouveau lamps and chandeliers all create a unique atmosphere of the place. Particularly impressive are the stained glass windows in the dome, which on sunny days cast colorful reflections on the marble floors, creating a magical, almost dreamlike atmosphere.
For those who want to dive deeper into the history of the building and its film career, special thematic tours are organized. Guides take a tour of the key locations used in the film, tell anecdotes from the set, and provide a glimpse into the history of the department store itself. This is an excellent opportunity to get to know the place from both a historical and film perspective.
Practical information for visitors and surrounding attractions
Kaufhaus Görlitz is located in the heart of the historic center of Görlitz, at 5-7 An der Frauenkirche St. This location is extremely convenient for tourists, especially those coming from Poland, as the building is only a few hundred meters from the bridge connecting German Görlitz with Polish Zgorzelec. For many Polish tourists, this is an excellent opportunity to be transported to the world of Wes Anderson during a day trip.
Getting to Görlitz is relatively easy. The city has a well-developed network of rail links to major German centers such as Dresden and Berlin. From Poland, the easiest way to get here is through Zgorzelec, crossing a pedestrian bridge over the Lusatian Neisse River. For those traveling by car, there are several parking lots in the area, although it is worth remembering that the city center is partially pedestrianized.
Currently, Kaufhaus Görlitz does not function as a traditional department store, and its status and accessibility to visitors may be changing. It's worth checking the official website for updated information before visiting. Regardless of whether the interiors are open to the public at any given time, the building's facade alone is an impressive sight, and the area surrounding the department store offers many other attractions.
As a city, Görlitz is a true architectural gem, often called 'Germany's most beautiful city.' The historic center has retained its authentic character, with more than 4,000 historic buildings representing a variety of styles from Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and Art Nouveau. A stroll through the cobblestone streets of the old city is a journey back in time, during which you can admire the richly decorated townhouses, impressive churches and charming backstreets.
There are several noteworthy buildings in the immediate vicinity of Kaufhaus Görlitz. One of them is the Frauenkirche (St. Mary's Church), a 15th century Gothic church whose tower towers over the area. Also nearby is the City Hall, a fine example of Renaissance urban architecture. Its richly decorated facade and distinctive exterior staircase attract tourists' attention.
History buffs will find the Silesian Museum (Schlesisches Museum) interesting, which presents the rich history and culture of the region. The exhibition covers the period from the Middle Ages to the present day, with a special focus on the complicated Polish-German relations in the area.
One of Görlitz's most striking buildings is the Reichenbach Tower, a medieval defense tower that offers panoramic views of the city and surrounding area. Climbing to its top requires some effort, but the reward of breathtaking views is well worth it.
Also worth noting is the Görlitz Theater, an impressive neo-Baroque-style building that still serves its original function, offering a rich program of theater and opera performances. Even if you don't plan to attend a performance, the building itself is worth seeing for its architecture.
Görlitz is also famous for its numerous cafes and restaurants, which are often housed in historic interiors. This is a great opportunity to relax after sightseeing and enjoy local specialties. Particularly popular are traditional German pastries and baked goods, which go perfectly with a cup of aromatic coffee.
For those who want to take a deeper dive into the city's cinematic atmosphere, consider taking part in one of the themed tours following in the footsteps of film productions shot in Görlitz. In addition to 'The Grand Budapest Hotel,' the city has been the setting for such films as 'Inglorious Basterds,' 'The Lektor,' 'Grand' and 'In Your Head Doesn't Fit 2.' The guides often share interesting facts from the film sets and show places that may have escaped the attention of the average tourist.
A visit to Kaufhaus Görlitz and the surrounding attractions is an excellent idea for a day trip, although to fully appreciate the charm of the city, a longer stay is worth considering. Görlitz, with its rich history, impressive architecture and cinematic connections, offers a unique experience for art, history and cinema lovers alike. And all this just a few steps from the Polish border, making the place even more accessible and attractive to Polish tourists.
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