The Skittle Alley: a magnificently preserved bowling alley from 1873 is a gem of the Greenwich neighborhood
April 11, 2025
In the heart of the historic Old Royal Naval College complex in London's Greenwich neighborhood lies a true treasure - The Skittle Alley, a unique bowling alley dating back to 1873. It is one of the last surviving Victorian bowling alleys in the UK, allowing modern visitors to experience the entertainment indulged in by British naval officers in the 19th century. Featuring original wooden bowling pins and balls, this historic facility is a fascinating combination of living history and interactive entertainment, offering a unique glimpse into daily life and recreation in Victorian England.
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History of The Skittle Alley -. From infirmary to officers' entertainment
The history of The Skittle Alley goes back much further than the year it officially opened. The origins of this unique bowling alley involve an interesting transformation of a space that originally served a completely different function. The building that now houses the bowling alley was originally built as an infirmary - a place to care for sick sailors. In 1764, the old infirmary was replaced by a new, more modern building, leaving the original structure without a specific purpose.
The turning point came in 1864, when a group of sailors proposed converting the now unused former infirmary building into an entertainment venue. The idea met with the approval of the authorities, which led to the official opening of the bowling alley in 1873, the exact inaugural year of the Royal Naval College. This is a particularly significant moment in the history of the place, as the bowling alley was created specifically for officers training at the newly established naval academy.
The Skittle Alley was not simply a place for entertainment - it served an important social and psychological function. At a time when naval service involved long periods of isolation at sea, places like the bowling alley provided a space where officers could relax, bond with colleagues and forget the hardships of service for a while. Bowling was not only fun, but also a way to build team spirit and develop strategic skills.
It is worth noting that The Skittle Alley is different from modern bowling alleys. The Victorian variation of the game, known as 'skittles,' has slightly different rules and equipment than modern bowling. The bowling pins are smaller and have a distinctive shape, and the balls are entirely wooden, with no finger holes. The game lane is also shorter and narrower than its modern counterparts. These differences make a visit to The Skittle Alley not only a history lesson, but also an opportunity to experience the traditional British game in its original form.
Over the years of its existence, the bowling alley has witnessed many historical events. It served generations of Royal Navy officers who received their training at Greenwich. One can imagine the countless stories, conversations and rivalries that took place there. Some local accounts suggest that the bowling alley used to host informal meetings of senior officers where important decisions were made about the British navy.
Fascinatingly, The Skittle Alley survived two world wars, including the bombing of London during the Blitz in World War II, which destroyed many historic buildings in the city. This fact adds even more historical value to the site, making it a true witness to Britain's turbulent history.
Through careful preservation and protection, The Skittle Alley has retained its original character. The wooden elements, original bowling and balls, and even the scoring system all remain almost unchanged from the 19th century. It is a rare example of such a well-preserved Victorian-era amusement facility, making it a priceless piece of British cultural heritage.
Unique features and experiences at The Skittle Alley
The Skittle Alley stands out from other historic London attractions for its interactive nature. Unlike typical museums, where exhibits can only be viewed from behind glass, this Victorian bowling alley offers visitors the opportunity to actively participate in history. Visitors can not only admire the original decor and architecture, but also play using the same wooden bowling pins and balls used by Royal Navy officers over 150 years ago. This experience literally allows you to touch history and travel back in time to the Victorian era.
The interior of the bowling alley impresses with its authenticity and attention to detail. Wooden wall panels, characteristic of Victorian architecture, create a warm, cozy atmosphere. The lighting, though adapted to modern safety standards, is designed to reflect the atmosphere of the 19th-century interior. Even the scoring system remains faithful to the original - points are written in chalk on a traditional blackboard, an interesting contrast to the automated systems familiar from modern bowling alleys.
One of the most fascinating aspects of The Skittle Alley is the opportunity to observe the differences between the traditional British bowling game and its modern counterpart. The game lane is shorter and narrower, requiring a different throwing technique. The bowling pins have a distinctive slender shape, different from the cracked bowling pins used in American bowling. The balls are smaller, entirely made of wood and have no finger holes, making the throwing technique quite different from the modern game. These differences are not only a historical curiosity, but also offer players a new challenge and opportunity to test their skills in a traditional version of this popular pastime.
Many local legends and anecdotes have grown up around The Skittle Alley. One tells of a sailor ghost that is said to appear sometimes in the evenings, moving the skittles and causing unexplained sounds. Another tale mentions secret admiralty meetings during the Napoleonic Wars, when strategic fleet operations were planned under the guise of an innocent game of bowling. While it is difficult to verify the veracity of these stories, they add to the charm and mystery of the place.
It is also interesting to note that The Skittle Alley was the place where new officers were traditionally introduced to the informal life of the academy. Senior officers would invite newcomers to a game, during which the unwritten rules and traditions of the Royal Naval College were passed on to them. This practice was an important part of building hierarchy and bonds between generations of naval officers.
For lovers of architecture and design, The Skittle Alley is a fascinating example of a functional recreational space from the Victorian era. The proportions of the room, the way the track is laid out, and even the seating arrangements for spectators - all were carefully designed according to the standards of the time. It is worth noting the construction details, such as the handcrafted joints of the wooden elements or the decorative finishes, which testify to the high level of craftsmanship of the 19th-century carpenters.
The Skittle Alley is open to the public daily from 12:00 pm to 3:00 pm, allowing enough time to fully appreciate this unique place. The Skittle Alley is part of the Old Royal Naval College complex, so it can be visited as part of a general admission ticket or during a special '600 Years of History Tour' that covers the highlights of this historic complex.
The Skittle Alley as part of Greenwich's cultural heritage
The Skittle Alley is an integral part of the rich cultural heritage of the Greenwich neighborhood, which is itself a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Located in the Old Royal Naval College complex, the bowling alley is one of those lesser-known but extremely valuable elements that make up the unique character of this historic part of London. For a full understanding of the significance of The Skittle Alley, it is worth placing it in the broader context of Greenwich's other attractions, with which it forms a fascinating story of British naval history, science and culture.
The Old Royal Naval College, which houses the bowling alley, is a monumental complex designed by Sir Christopher Wren - the same architect who created St. Paul's Cathedral in London. The buildings originally served as a hospital for sailors and later as a naval academy. Today it is one of the finest examples of Baroque architecture in Britain. The Skittle Alley, although more modest compared to such gems as Painted Hall (known as the 'Sistine of Britain'), is a valuable piece showing the daily life and pastimes of those associated with the navy.
When visiting The Skittle Alley, plan time to explore the entire Old Royal Naval College complex. Particularly noteworthy is the aforementioned Painted Hall, a spectacular room adorned with James Thornhill's Baroque paintings, which took 19 years to create. Another highlight is the Chapel of St Peter and St Paul - a neoclassical chapel with extraordinary acoustics, where classical music concerts are regularly held. These monumental spaces contrast with the intimate nature of the bowling alley, showcasing various aspects of life at the complex - from formal ceremonies to informal entertainment.
Greenwich is also home to the famous Royal Observatory - the site of the passing of the Meridian Zero, marking GMT (Greenwich Mean Time). This proximity to the 'center of time' gives added meaning to a visit to the historic bowling alley - it's like literally crossing the line between eras, experiencing entertainment from a time when Greenwich was beginning to be recognized as the benchmark for measuring time around the world.
For maritime history buffs, a visit to The Skittle Alley can be perfectly complemented with a visit to the nearby National Maritime Museum - the largest maritime museum in the world. The museum's exhibits provide a better understanding of the historical context in which the bowling alley and the entire Royal Naval College operated. There you can see officers' uniforms from the era, models of the ships on which bowling alley users served, and even everyday objects from the lives of sailors.
The Skittle Alley is also a testament to the social changes taking place in Victorian England. In an era when entertainment was becoming increasingly accessible to different social classes, the officers' bowling alley was an example of an exclusive recreational space available only to a select group. Today, when it is open to all visitors, it symbolizes the democratization of access to historical heritage and entertainment.
The educational aspect of The Skittle Alley is also worth noting. For younger generations, accustomed to digital entertainment, the opportunity to play traditional bowling can be a fascinating history lesson. It shows how people played before the electronic age, what skills were valued and how leisure time was spent. It's a tangible experience of the past that speaks much more powerfully than dry facts from textbooks.
The Skittle Alley, while perhaps not as spectacular as other Greenwich attractions, offers something unique - an authentic experience of history. In a world where many historic sites have been modernized or reconstructed, this bowling alley remains a true, almost untouched piece of the past. The opportunity to play with the same bowling pins and balls used by naval officers more than a century ago creates a unique link between the past and the present, allowing modern visitors to become, for a moment, part of the long tradition of the British Royal Navy.
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