Are you not fond of people and prefer nature to conversation? You'll love Desolation Sound in Canada
June 18, 2025
In a world full of hustle and bustle, constant notifications and constant communication, true silence has become a luxury. If you're one of those people who appreciate solitude and prefer to listen to the sound of waves and birdsong instead of talking to people, Desolation Sound in British Columbia is a place made just for you. This remote corner of Canada, despite its name suggesting desolation and despondency, offers one of the most spectacular wilderness experiences on the west coast of North America. It is here that the mountains meet the ocean, creating a landscape of breathtaking beauty, with bald eagles, seals and the occasional orca passing in the distance as the only companions on the journey.
Ad
Desolation Sound -. history and geographic location
Desolation Sound is a scenic marine area located at the northern end of the Sunshine Coast in British Columbia, between the Canadian mainland and the northern tip of Vancouver Island. The name of this place may seem a bit misleading - 'Desolation' suggests abandonment, despondency or wilderness. The history of the name dates back to 1792, when British Captain George Vancouver reached these waters during his expedition along the west coast of North America. Despite the stunning beauty of the area, Vancouver described the place as 'gloomy and melancholy'. It is likely that his assessment was influenced by the weather - the region is often shrouded in fog, and during the period of his visit he was able to experience the rainy and cloudy climate typical of the Pacific Northwest.
Ironically, today Desolation Sound is revered for precisely what Vancouver found depressing - its isolation, wildness and relative inaccessibility. What was a disadvantage to an 18th-century explorer becomes the greatest asset to a modern man weary of civilization.
Geographically, Desolation Sound is a unique place. It is the point where the deep waters of the ocean meet the imposing Coast Mountains, which rise almost vertically from the sea to a height of more than 2,000 meters. This proximity of mountains and ocean creates a microclimate that is surprisingly mild for such a northern location. During the summer months, water temperatures can reach as high as 22°C, making it the warmest seawater north of Mexico on America's west coast.
Desolation Sound Marine Provincial Park, established in 1973, covers an area of more than 8,000 hectares of land and water. The park is the heart of the region, but it is also surrounded by other protected areas such as Malaspina Provincial Park, Roscoe Bay Provincial Park and Copeland Islands Marine Provincial Park. Together they form a vast wilderness complex that can be explored for weeks.
Access to Desolation Sound is limited, which only adds to the charm of the place. No roads lead here - the only way to get here is by boat or kayak. The nearest settlements from which to launch are Lund, Powell River or Comox on Vancouver Island. Lund, a tiny settlement with only a few hundred inhabitants, is often referred to as the 'end of the road' - it is here that Highway 101, which runs along the west coast from Chile to northern British Columbia, ends.
This isolation ensures that Desolation Sound remains one of the last truly wild places on the British Columbia coast. Despite its growing popularity with kayakers and boaters, you can still find coves and islands where you won't meet a living soul all day. It is this solitude and the possibility of deep immersion in nature that attracts people here who value peace and quiet more than the company of other people.
It is worth mentioning that these areas are the traditional lands of the indigenous Tla'amin, Klahoose and Homalco peoples. Their presence in the region dates back thousands of years, and traces of their culture can be found in the form of shell mounds (shell middens) and ancient petroglyphs. For these communities, Desolation Sound was not a desolate or depressing place, but a rich source of sustenance and part of their spiritual heritage.
Activities and experiences in Desolation Sound
Desolation Sound is a true paradise for those seeking deep contact with nature away from the hustle and bustle of civilization. The area offers a range of activities that allow you to intimately experience the wild beauty of the region, while giving you the opportunity to completely disconnect from the human world.
Sea kayaking is undoubtedly the most popular way to explore Desolation Sound. The sheltered waters, countless coves and islands create ideal conditions for kayakers of all experience levels. For beginners, shorter guided trips are recommended and can be arranged in Lund or Powell River. Experienced kayakers can plan multi-day expeditions, camping on wild beaches and islands. It is worth remembering that despite the relatively calm waters, sea kayaking requires proper preparation and equipment. The weather can change rapidly, and currents can be treacherous. Every kayaker should carry a sea map, compass or GPS, and know the basics of navigation and water rescue.
Sailing is another popular activity in Desolation Sound. Protected waters, numerous bays offering safe anchorages and spectacular views attract boaters from around the world. Prism Cove, Tenedos Bay, Grace Harbor and Roscoe Bay are just some of the popular anchorages. For those without their own boat, there are several yacht charter companies in the region. However, it is worth remembering that navigating these waters requires experience due to the numerous underwater reefs and variable weather conditions.
Fishing in Desolation Sound is a real treat for lovers of this activity. The waters abound with various species of fish, including salmon (five species), halibut, cod and many others. Fishing requires a proper license, which can be purchased online or at local fishing stores. It is worth remembering the principles of sustainable fishing and the restrictions on fishing for certain species, especially salmon, whose populations have been struggling in recent years.
Scuba diving is a lesser-known but equally fascinating activity in Desolation Sound. The waters are home to abundant marine life, including colorful starfish, sea urchins, octopus and even giant clams. Underwater visibility is usually good, and the water temperature in summer is surprisingly pleasant. There are companies in the region offering equipment rentals and organizing diving expeditions for those with the right qualifications.
Hiking in Desolation Sound is limited due to the difficult, mountainous terrain and lack of marked trails. However, there are a few short trails that can be explored, especially on the islands and around the bays. One of the more popular trails is the one leading from Tenedos Bay to Unwin Lake, offering a refreshing swim in fresh water after a day in the salty ocean water. Another notable spot is Sarah Point, where the famous 180-kilometer Sunshine Coast Trail begins.
Wildlife watching is one of Desolation Sound's biggest attractions. The region is home to an impressive variety of species. In the sky, majestic bald eagles, herons and cormorants can be spotted. In the water, seals, sea otters and sometimes even dolphins and orcas are often seen. For bird lovers, the area is a true paradise with more than 100 species of sea and land birds. It's worth bringing binoculars and a guide to the local fauna to fully appreciate the richness of the local wildlife.
Landscape and nature photography is another activity that finds ideal conditions in Desolation Sound. Dramatic mountains meeting the ocean, mists hovering over the water at dawn, sunsets painting the sky and water orange and pink - these are just some of the myriad motifs waiting to be captured. The light in this region is exceptional, especially during the so-called 'golden hour' just after sunrise and before sunset.
Camping in Desolation Sound is an experience that remains in the memory for a long time. The park offers several designated camping spots, but it is also permitted to pitch tents on beaches above the high tide line. However, camping here requires proper preparation - bring everything you need, including a supply of fresh water (which is in short supply on most islands), and follow the Leave No Trace camping rules. It's worth remembering that popular camping spots can be crowded in high season (June to September), so for those who are really looking for solitude, off-peak season trips or exploration of lesser-known corners of the park are recommended.
Practical information and best time to visit
Planning a trip to Desolation Sound requires careful preparation, especially for those who appreciate solitude and want to maximize the potential of this unique place. Here is some practical information to help you organize an unforgettable trip to this remote corner of British Columbia.
The best time to visit Desolation Sound is from June to September. During these months, the weather is most stable, with long, sunny days and minimal rainfall. The air temperature usually ranges between 20°C and 25°C, and the water reaches a pleasant 18-22°C. July and August are peak season, when bays and anchorages can be quite crowded (by Desolation Sound standards, which still means far fewer people than in popular tourist destinations). For those who really appreciate solitude, June and September offer an excellent compromise between good weather and fewer visitors.
It's also worth considering a visit in May or October. During these months, the weather can be capricious, but the days are often beautiful and the likelihood of meeting other people is minimal. In addition, in spring you can admire the blooming meadows on the islands, and in autumn - the spectacular colors of the changing leaves. In winter Desolation Sound is virtually deserted, and storms and rains make exploration difficult and potentially dangerous - a time reserved for the most experienced and prepared for extreme conditions travelers.
Desolation Sound can only be accessed by water, which is the first filter for potential visitors and ensures that the site remains relatively inaccessible to mass tourism. The main starting point is the town of Lund, located at the northern end of the Sunshine Coast. Lund can be reached by car from Vancouver (about a five-hour drive, including two ferry crossings) or from Vancouver Island via Comox and Powell River.
Alternatively, you can use small water planes (floatplanes), which offer regular service to Vancouver, Victoria and other major cities on the coast. This mode of travel, while more expensive, saves time and offers incredible bird's-eye views.
For those without their own kayak or boat, there are several companies in Lund, Powell River and Comox that offer equipment rentals and organize guided tours. Prices vary depending on the length of the trip and the type of equipment, but in general, be prepared to spend several hundred Canadian dollars for a week's rental of a fully equipped kayak.
Preparing for a trip to Desolation Sound requires careful planning, especially if you intend to spend several days or more there. Here are the key elements to keep in mind:
Drinking water is one of the biggest challenges in Desolation Sound. Most islands and coastlines lack fresh water sources, and those that do exist can dry up in the height of summer. It is necessary to take an adequate supply of water or have a reliable filtration/purification system. Some experienced kayakers install small seawater desalination systems on their boats, which gives independence from freshwater sources.
Food for the entire trip must be brought with you. There are no stores or restaurants in Desolation Sound. Lund offers one last chance to replenish your supplies before you set sail. It's a good idea to plan a menu that is nutritious yet light and easy to prepare at the campsite. Dried and freeze-dried foods are popular with kayakers for their weight and durability.
Camping equipment should be lightweight, compact and resistant to sea conditions. The tent must be able to withstand strong winds and rain, and the sleeping bag should provide comfort even on cooler nights (temperatures can drop to around 10°C even in summer). A waterproof bag or tote for electronics and documents is also essential.
Navigating Desolation Sound's maze of islands and bays requires proper nautical charts and the ability to read them. A GPS is useful, but should not be the only navigational tool. A compass, traditional paper maps and the ability to use them are invaluable, especially when electronics fail.
Safety in a remote and wild place like Desolation Sound is crucial. Be sure to bring a first aid kit, signaling means (flares, signal mirror), and a communication device that works outside the range of cellular networks, such as a satellite phone or PLB (Personal Locator Beacon). It's also a good idea to inform someone you trust about your planned route and expected return time.
The rules and regulations for Desolation Sound Marine Provincial Park are relatively simple, but following them is important to preserve the natural beauty of the place. A camping permit is required, which can be obtained online or from the information center in Lund. The 'Leave No Trace' rule is in effect - everything you bring must be taken back with you, including trash. Collection of live marine organisms is prohibited, and fishing requires a proper license.
Desolation Sound, despite its name, offers one of the most inspiring and renewing experiences to be found on the west coast of North America. For those who appreciate silence, solitude and deep contact with nature, this is a place that can become not only a destination, but a true sanctuary for the weary soul. In a world that constantly demands our attention, Desolation Sound reminds us that sometimes the greatest luxury is simply to be - in silence, surrounded by majestic nature, away from the hustle and bustle of civilization.
Similar articles
Ad