Culinary Travel: Treviso for amateurs of the bitter taste of 'amarognolo'

Culinary Travel: Treviso for amateurs of the bitter taste of 'amarognolo'

June 18, 2025

Treviso, located just 30 kilometers from Venice, is a city that impresses not only with its canals and medieval architecture, but above all with its unique cuisine. This is the birthplace of the famous radicchio di Treviso, a red chicory with a distinctive bitter taste that Italians refer to as 'amarognolo'. This unique ingredient is the basis of many local dishes and is a true culinary treasure of the Veneto region. A trip to Treviso is a true feast for the palate, where traditional recipes meet modern interpretations, all surrounded by charming canals and Renaissance buildings. I invite you on a culinary journey in the footsteps of the bitter taste that has become a symbol of this remarkable Italian city.

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Classical osterias of Treviso - guardians of the amarognolo tradition

The heart of culinary Treviso beats in its traditional osterias, where the art of preparing dishes with a distinctive bitter aftertaste has been cultivated for generations. One such place is Osteria Contemporanea Treviso, an establishment that, despite its name suggesting modernity, pays great respect to local traditions. Located on Via Inferiore, in the heart of the historic center, the osteria offers a menu in which radicchio di Treviso appears in many guises. Particularly recommended is the risotto with radicchio and local Montasio cheese, where the bitter aftertaste of radicchio perfectly balances the creaminess of the rice and the rich tang of the cheese. Prices at the establishment are kept at an average level, which, combined with the high quality of the ingredients and the authenticity of the dishes, makes this place extremely attractive to culinary explorers.

Just a few steps away, on the same street, is Toni del Spin, an osteria with more than a century of history that has earned its status as an institution among the residents of Treviso. The interior is decorated in a classic style with wooden tables and historic photographs on the walls, creating a unique atmosphere of authenticity. The menu changes seasonally, but you'll always find radicchio dishes ranging from a simple salad with grilled radicchio, extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar to more complex compositions like a beef tagliata with radicchio and a reduction of local Raboso red wine. Prices are slightly higher than at Osteria Contemporanea, but the quality and tradition fully compensate for this.

A little farther from the center, but still in the historic part of the city, is Hostaria Antica Contrada delle Due Torri Treviso. This family-run establishment is already run by the third generation of the same family, which can be seen in the piety with which the dishes are prepared here. The interior is cozy, with stone walls and wooden beams on the ceiling, which adds a rustic touch to the place. The restaurant's specialty is bigoli (thick pasta similar to spaghetti) with radicchio sauce and pancetta - a dish that fully captures the character of Treviso cuisine. The bitter taste of radicchio is broken by the saltiness of pancetta, creating a harmonious whole. Prices are moderate and portions are generous, making this place a popular destination for tourists and locals alike.

Pierre Trattoria Sartoriale, despite its French name, serves authentic cuisine of the Veneto region with a creative approach to tradition. Located on Viale dei Mille, a bit off the main tourist routes, it offers a relaxed atmosphere and refined dishes. The chef specializes in pairing radicchio with seafood - the octopus carpaccio with marinated radicchio and lemon oil is particularly recommended. The restaurant is distinguished by its elegant decor and professional service, which justifies the slightly higher prices. This is an ideal place for an exceptional dinner, during which you can appreciate the artistry of combining traditional ingredients in modern compositions.

Antica Torre, located in a historic building on Via Inferiore, specializes in seafood, but radicchio di Treviso also features prominently on the menu. The restaurant is famous for a dish that perfectly represents the fusion of sea and land - risotto with shrimp and radicchio, where the sweetness of the seafood contrasts perfectly with the bitter aftertaste of radicchio. The interior of the restaurant is elegant, with large windows overlooking the canal, which creates a romantic atmosphere, especially in the evening. Prices are higher than at the average osteria, but the quality of the ingredients and the craftsmanship of the dishes fully justify it.

Comparing these five establishments, one can see differences in their approach to Treviso's culinary tradition. While Toni del Spin and Hostaria Antica Contrada delle Due Torri rely on classic recipes that have remained unchanged for generations, Osteria Contemporanea and Pierre Trattoria Sartoriale allow themselves to be more creative without losing respect for local ingredients. Antica Torre, on the other hand, specializes in combining land and sea traditions, with interesting culinary results. In terms of price, Osteria Contemporanea and Hostaria Antica Contrada delle Due Torri are the most affordable, while Pierre Trattoria Sartoriale and Antica Torre rank in the higher price segment. Toni del Spin occupies an intermediate position, offering traditional dishes at prices that reflect their quality and the restaurant's history.

Modern interpretations of the bitter flavor in Treviso restaurants

Treviso, while deeply rooted in culinary tradition, is not indifferent to contemporary gastronomic trends. The albronsèr restaurant, located slightly off the main tourist routes on the Via di Sant'Angelo, is an excellent example of a modern approach to local ingredients. The chef here, winner of prestigious culinary awards, creates dishes that can be described as avant-garde, but always with respect for the region's traditions. Radicchio di Treviso appears on the menu in surprising combinations - for example, as part of a sorbet served between main courses or as an ingredient in chocolate pralines served with coffee. The restaurant's interior is minimalist, with a predominance of white and gray, providing a neutral backdrop for the colorful, artfully served dishes. Prices are high, but the culinary experience offered at albronsèr is well worth the price for true food enthusiasts.

Ristorante MARdiVINO, located on Strada del Nascimben, is another example of the Veneto region's modern approach to cuisine. The restaurant specializes in dishes that combine land and sea traditions, which is characteristic of this region of Italy. The chef uses radicchio di Treviso with great creativity - one of the flagship dishes is tuna tartare with caramelized radicchio and prosecco foam. The interior of the restaurant is sleek and modern, with large glass windows overlooking the garden, which creates a pleasant, relaxing atmosphere. Prices are quite high, but the quality of ingredients and culinary level fully justify it. MARdiVINO also has an impressive wine list, with an emphasis on local varieties that go well with the bitter taste of radicchio.

Osteria Alla Grotta, despite its traditional name, offers an interesting combination of classic and modern. Located in the heart of the historic center on Via Cornarotta, in a building dating back to the 15th century, it impresses with its atmosphere - stone walls, low vaulted ceilings and candles on the tables create a magical atmosphere. The menu is relatively short, but thoughtful, with a clear nod to seasonality. In winter, when radicchio di Treviso is in full season, the chef prepares a unique dish - dumplings stuffed with radicchio and ricotta, served with a sauce of nuts and sage. This combination of the bitter taste of radicchio with the sweetness of the cheese and the nuttiness of the sauce is a real explosion of flavors. Prices are moderate and portions are satisfactory, which, combined with the unique atmosphere, makes this place very popular - reservations are almost a must, especially on weekends.

Antico Portico, located in Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore, is a restaurant that combines respect for tradition with a modern approach to the presentation of dishes. The interior is elegant, with large arched windows overlooking the piazza and church, creating a unique setting for a culinary experience. The chef specializes in dishes that can be described as 'comfort food' in a luxurious way. One such dish is lasagna with radicchio, gorgonzola and walnuts - a seemingly simple dish that, thanks to its perfect execution and high-quality ingredients, becomes a culinary masterpiece. The bitter flavor of the radicchio here is masterfully balanced by the creamy sweetness of the cheese and the crunchy texture of the nuts. Prices are quite high, but the quality and atmosphere fully compensate for this.

Trattoria Alla Colomba, located on Via Ortazzo, a bit off the main tourist routes, is a place that combines tradition and modernity in the most natural way. The family-run trattoria is run by a young couple - he in the kitchen, she in the hall - who are respectful of the region's culinary heritage, while introducing subtle contemporary touches. The menu changes daily, depending on what the chef finds at the local market in the morning, but radicchio di Treviso always holds a place of honor. Particularly recommended is their pappardelle with radicchio, guanciale and amaretti crumbs - a dish in which the bitter flavor of radicchio is broken by the saltiness of smoked pork cheek and the sweetness of Italian pastries. This non-obvious combination perfectly captures the spirit of modern Italian cuisine - respect for tradition, but without fear of experimentation. Prices are moderate and the atmosphere is homely and cozy.

Comparing these five establishments, one can see different approaches to the modern interpretation of the local culinary tradition. Albronsèr represents the most avant-garde approach, creating dishes that can be described as culinary art. Ristorante MARdiVINO focuses on elegance and sophistication, combining land and sea traditions in modern compositions. Osteria Alla Grotta offers traditional dishes in a historic setting, but with subtle contemporary touches. Antico Portico specializes in luxurious versions of classic dishes, where perfection in execution and the highest quality ingredients are important. Trattoria Alla Colomba represents the most approachable approach - home cooking with a creative twist, based on seasonal, local products.

In terms of price, Osteria Alla Grotta and Trattoria Alla Colomba are the most affordable, offering excellent value for money. Antico Portico and Ristorante MARdiVINO are in the middle price segment, while albronsèr is by far the most expensive of the establishments described, but also offers the most unique culinary experience.

Radicchio di Treviso - a bitter treasure in the culinary tradition of the city

Radicchio di Treviso, a red radicchio with a distinctive bitter taste, is not only an ingredient in many dishes, but a true culinary symbol of the city. To fully appreciate the importance of this vegetable in local gastronomy, it is worth visiting restaurants that celebrate its unique character in a special way. Osteria Contemporanea Treviso and Toni del Spin, located on the same Via Inferiore street, offer two different approaches to the same ingredient. At Osteria Contemporanea, radicchio is treated with a modern lightness - it appears in salads with the addition of fruit, nuts and honey, which temper its bitterness to create balanced compositions. Toni del Spin, on the other hand, represents a more traditional approach - here radicchio is often grilled, which brings out its sweetness and reduces the intensity of its bitter taste. Particularly recommended is their dish with grilled radicchio, polenta and local Casatella Trevigiana DOP cheese - a simple composition that perfectly captures the character of the regional cuisine.

Hostaria Antica Contrada delle Due Torri Treviso, with its long history and commitment to tradition, offers dishes in which radicchio di Treviso is treated with due respect. Their specialty is risotto with radicchio and Prosecco wine, a dish that perfectly represents the Veneto region, combining its most characteristic products. The bitter taste of radicchio here is balanced by the creaminess of the risotto and the delicate sweetness of the wine, creating a harmonious whole. Prices are moderate and the atmosphere is authentic, making this the perfect place for those seeking the true, unadulterated flavors of the region.

Pierre Trattoria Sartoriale approaches radicchio di Treviso with more creativity, often pairing it with unusual ingredients. One of their flagship dishes is ravioli stuffed with radicchio and goat cheese, served with a white truffle sauce - a composition that combines the bitterness of radicchio with the saltiness of cheese and the aromatic notes of truffles. This dish perfectly demonstrates how a traditional ingredient can be used in modern, sophisticated cuisine. Prices are higher than in the average trattoria, but the quality and originality of the dishes fully justify it.

Antica Torre, which specializes in seafood, offers an interesting combination of radicchio and gifts of the sea. Their carpaccio of scallops with marinated radicchio and lemon oil is a dish that perfectly balances the sweetness of seafood with the bitter aftertaste of radicchio. The elegant interior and professional service make this the perfect place for a special dinner, where you can appreciate the artistry of combining the different culinary traditions of the Veneto region.

Albronsèr, with its avant-garde approach to cuisine, treats radicchio di Treviso as an ingredient that can be used in surprising ways. Their dessert - panna cotta with white chocolate and caramelized radicchio - is a daring proposition that shows that the bitter flavor can be an interesting accent in sweet dishes as well. This is a place for true culinary explorers, ready for unobvious flavor combinations.

Ristorante MARdiVINO combines tradition with modernity, offering dishes in which radicchio di Treviso plays an important but not dominant role. Their tagliolini with radicchio, saffron and shrimp is a dish that perfectly represents the cuisine of the Veneto region - combining land and sea influences to create a harmonious whole. The elegant interior and professional service make it the perfect place for a business lunch or a romantic dinner.

Osteria Alla Grotta, despite its traditional name, offers interesting contemporary interpretations of radicchio dishes. Their cream of radicchio with toasted walnut bread and a drop of truffle oil is a dish that shows how a traditional ingredient can be served in a modern, elegant way. The restaurant's historic interior creates a unique atmosphere, perfect for enjoying refined flavors.

Antico Portico specializes in dishes that can be described as 'comfort food' in a luxurious way. Their lasagna with radicchio, gorgonzola and walnuts is a dish that, despite its simplicity, becomes a culinary masterpiece thanks to its perfect execution and high-quality ingredients. The bitter taste of radicchio here is masterfully balanced by the creamy sweetness of the cheese and the crunchy texture of the nuts.

Trattoria Alla Colomba, with its daily changing menu, always offers fresh, seasonal dishes in which radicchio di Treviso often plays a central role. Their risotto with radicchio, saffron and shallots is a dish that perfectly captures the character of the Veneto region's cuisine - simple but full of flavor, based on top-quality local ingredients.

Comparing all the described establishments, one can see different approaches to the use of radicchio di Treviso in the kitchen. From traditional, simple dishes, where the bitter taste of radicchio is the main character, to modern, complex compositions, where radicchio is one of many elements that create a harmonious whole. Regardless of the place chosen, every lover of culinary discoveries will find something for himself in Treviso - from affordable trattorias offering home cooking to sophisticated restaurants serving avant-garde dishes. All these places have one thing in common - respect for the local culinary tradition and love for the distinctive, bitter taste of 'amarognolo', which has become a symbol of this charming Italian city.

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