Taichung City: the Rainbow Village in Taiwan
July 28, 2025
Hidden in the heart of Taichung, Taiwan, is an extraordinary treasure - the Rainbow Village, a place that has evolved from an unassuming military settlement into one of the island's most recognizable tourist attractions. This small but extremely colorful village attracts more than a million visitors a year, who come to admire the surreal paintings covering every square inch of the buildings. Behind this colorful phenomenon is one person - Huang Yung Fu, commonly known as 'Rainbow Grandpa,' a war veteran who, with his brush and determination, not only saved his community from demolition, but also created a true work of art that has become a symbol of creative resistance and Taiwan's cultural heritage.
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History of Rainbow Village and its creator
Rainbow Village, known locally as 'Caihongjuan Village,' has roots deeply embedded in the turbulent history of Taiwan and China. To fully understand the significance of the place, one must go back to the time when Huang Yung Fu, born in 1924 in Guangdong Province, China, enlisted in the army as a young boy of just 15 years old to fight against the Japanese invaders during World War II. Fate later threw him into the Chinese Civil War, where as a Kuomintang soldier he fought against Mao Zedong's communist forces.
After the defeat of the Nationalists in 1949, Huang, like millions of other soldiers and their families, fled to Taiwan with the government of Chiang Kai-shek. For these military refugees, Taiwanese authorities built temporary settlements known as 'military dependents' villages. These were simple, modest structures meant to serve as temporary shelters, but eventually became home to many for decades.
Huang settled in one such village in Taichung, where he spent most of his adult life. Over the years, as Taiwan developed and modernized, many of these military settlements were slated for demolition to make room for new developments. In the 1980s, when most of his village's residents had already moved away, accepting government compensation or moving to more modern housing, Huang remained one of the last residents of his community.
Facing loneliness and the prospect of losing the only home he had known for decades, Huang began painting at the age of about 87. At first it was simple paintings on the walls of his home - birds, animals and characters from Chinese folklore. Painting became a way for him to combat loneliness, but it soon turned into something more - a form of protest against the planned demolition of his village.
In time, his artistic activity spread to neighboring buildings. Colorful paintings began to cover walls, roofs, sidewalks - every available surface. Huang painted daily, creating a surreal landscape full of bright colors, fantastic creatures and abstract patterns. His style, though unprofessional, has something very endearing about it - it is full of life, joy and childlike innocence, providing a contrast to the artist's difficult life experiences.
A turning point in the history of Rainbow Village came when students at a local university discovered Huang's work and began sharing photos of the colorful village on social media. News of a lonely elderly man painting to save his home spread quickly, attracting media and public attention. A campaign was launched to preserve the village as an important cultural heritage site.
Faced with growing public support and media publicity, the Taichung city government changed its plans in 2010. Instead of demolishing the village, they decided to preserve it as a tourist attraction and an important piece of cultural heritage. Huang was allowed to stay in his home and continue painting, and his work was recognized as a valuable cultural asset.
Today, at the age of 99, Rainbow Grandpa still lives in his colorful village, although due to his age he no longer paints as actively as he once did. His story is a testament to the strength of the human spirit, creativity and determination. From the simple act of painting to kill time and express protest, he has created a place that has become a symbol of resistance to urbanization and a tribute to the history of Taiwan's military settlements.
Artistic phenomenon and cultural significance
Rainbow Village is not just a colorful tourist attraction - it is a living work of art with deep cultural significance. Huang's paintings, though unprofessional in the traditional sense, have a remarkable authenticity and emotional power. Every wall, every corner of the village tells a piece of the story of its creator and the community it represents.
Rainbow Grandpa's artistic style is unique and instantly recognizable. His paintings are characterized by vibrant, saturated colors and simple but expressive forms. Motifs include human figures, animals, birds, flowers and abstract patterns and symbols. Many of the paintings incorporate elements of traditional Chinese symbolism and folklore, reflecting the artist's cultural heritage.
An interesting aspect of Huang's work is the way he blends the past with the present. Influences from traditional Chinese art can be seen in his works, but also modern, surrealistic elements. Some paintings depict scenes from military life, others relate to the artist's childhood in mainland China, and still others seem to be pure fantasy - a colorful world created as a counterbalance to difficult life experiences.
In the center of the village is a building called the 'Story House', where visitors can see old photographs of Rainbow Grandpa, framed drawings with his signature, and a television displaying reports on him. This place is a kind of museum documenting the history of the village and its creator, allowing visitors to better understand the cultural and historical context of this remarkable place.
Rainbow Village also has great significance as a symbol of resistance to Taiwan's rapid urbanization and modernization. In a country that has undergone rapid economic and social transformation in recent decades, many historic sites and traditional communities have been sacrificed for development. The story of Huang and his colorful village has become a symbol of the struggle to preserve cultural heritage and identity in the face of inexorable progress.
At the same time, Rainbow Village represents an important aspect of Taiwan's history - the fate of Kuomintang soldiers and their families who fled mainland China after the civil war. Military settlements like the one Huang lived in were an integral part of Taiwan's social fabric for decades, and their gradual disappearance means the loss of an important element of the island's historical narrative. Thanks to Rainbow Grandpa's efforts, at least a piece of this history has been preserved for future generations.
The Rainbow Village phenomenon extends far beyond Taiwan's borders. Thanks to social media and the Internet, the colorful village has become an international sensation, attracting tourists from all over the world. Photos of Huang's surreal paintings appear regularly on Instagram, Facebook and other platforms, inspiring artists and travelers. This global recognition has helped not only to preserve the village, but also to raise awareness of Taiwanese culture and history.
It is also worth noting that Rainbow Village has become an important example of how art can be a tool for social change. Huang's story shows that a single man, armed only with a paintbrush and paints, can successfully defy powerful economic and political forces. His success in saving a village from demolition inspires others to use creative forms of protest and act to preserve cultural heritage.
For many Taiwanese, Rainbow Village has become a source of national pride - an example of the creativity, resilience and determination that characterize the island's spirit. In a country that has struggled for decades to gain international recognition and identity, cultural phenomena like Huang's colorful village are helping to build a unique Taiwanese narrative distinct from the Chinese mainland.
From an artistic perspective, Rainbow Village is a fascinating example of outsider art or art brut - art created outside the artistic mainstream, by people without formal art training. Huang's works, like those of other outsider artists, are characterized by authenticity, spontaneity and a lack of self-awareness typical of professional artists. It is this raw, unfiltered expression that makes his paintings so moving and universal in their message.
Visit experience and practical information
A visit to Rainbow Village is an unforgettable experience that transports visitors to a surreal, colorful world created by one man. Although the village is relatively small - it can be visited in an hour - its impact on visitors is often profound and long-lasting. Here's what to expect when visiting this unique place.
Rainbow Village is located in Taichung's Nantun district, somewhat off the main tourist routes of the city. Getting there requires some planning, but the effort is worth the reward. Upon arrival, visitors are greeted by an explosion of color - every surface, from walls and roofs to sidewalks and stairs, is covered with vibrant paintings. The effect is stunning - as if stepping into a three-dimensional painting or fairyland.
Walking through the narrow alleys of the village, one can admire the variety of motifs and styles in Huang's works. Some paintings depict characters from Chinese mythology and folklore, while others show scenes from everyday life or abstract patterns. Each corner offers new discoveries and perspectives, encouraging slow, careful exploring and photography.
One of the most valuable aspects of a visit to Rainbow Village is the opportunity to meet Rainbow Grandpa himself. Although he is not always present or available to visitors due to his advanced age (99 years old), lucky visitors may see him sitting in front of his house or even painting. Huang has become a local celebrity and symbol of the village, and his presence adds an authenticity and emotional dimension to the place.
In the center of the village is the aforementioned 'Story House', which serves as a small museum and information center. Here you can see old photographs of Huang, learn more about the history of the village and watch TV reports on Rainbow Grandpa. It's a great place to better understand the cultural and historical context of this remarkable place.
Rainbow Village has also become home to small stores and stands offering souvenirs related to the village - postcards, magnets, bags and other items decorated with colorful motifs from Huang's paintings. Buying such souvenirs is not only a way to preserve the memories of your visit, but also a form of support for maintaining the village and ensuring that its creator lives a dignified life in old age.
The best time to visit Rainbow Village is during the morning or late afternoon hours, especially on weekdays. As a popular tourist attraction, the site can be crowded on weekends and holidays, making it difficult to quietly admire the paintings and take photos without crowds in the background. A morning visit also offers the best light for photographing the colorful walls.
It's worth noting that Rainbow Village, despite its popularity, has maintained an authentic, non-commercial character. Unlike many tourist attractions that have become overly commercialized, the village remains a relatively simple, unassuming place. There is no admission, although visitors are encouraged to leave donations to support the maintenance of the village and the care of Rainbow Grandpa.
For photography lovers, Rainbow Village is a true paradise. Intense colors, unexpected juxtapositions and surreal motifs create countless opportunities for fascinating shots. Of particular interest are the details of the paintings - faces, animals, symbols - which reveal Huang's personal style and artistic vision. When taking photographs, note the play of light and shadow on the colorful surfaces at different times of the day.
Rainbow Village also provides an interesting contrast to the modern, metropolitan face of Taichung. This city, the third largest in Taiwan, is known for its modern architecture, elegant shopping centers and vibrant nightlife. A visit to the colorful Huang Village offers a different perspective - a reminder of history and tradition in the heart of a fast-growing metropolis.
For those interested in gaining a deeper understanding of the context of Rainbow Village, consider combining a visit with a visit to other sites related to the history of Taiwan's military settlements. Several such settlements have been preserved in Taichung and other cities, some converted into museums or cultural centers. Such a broader view allows one to better appreciate the significance of Huang's work in the context of the island's social and political history.
Rainbow Village is not only a tourist attraction, but also a living testimony to the power of the human spirit and creativity. The story of Huang Yung Fu, who discovered himself as an artist in old age and used his creativity to save his community, is deeply moving and inspiring. His colorful village remains a symbol of resistance to oblivion and the erasure of history, reminding us of the value of preserving cultural heritage in the face of inexorable progress.
When visiting Rainbow Village, it is worth remembering that it is not just a place to take colorful photos for social media, but a space with deep cultural and historical significance. Respect for the place and its creator, a careful tour and a willingness to understand the context will allow you to fully appreciate the uniqueness of this remarkable phenomenon on the map of Taiwan.
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